Pea and bean weevil
A small grey-brown beetle that bites regular semicircular notches out of the edges of pea and bean leaves, working inwards from the margin so a badly grazed leaf ends up scalloped like a postage stamp. On an established plant it is cosmetic and can be ignored. On a spring seedling that is still on its first two or three leaves it is not, because there is not enough leaf left to lose.
Caused by: Sitona lineatus · also called sitona weevil, notched leaves on peas, scalloped bean leaves
What brings it on
Adults overwinter in field margins and hedge bottoms and walk rather than fly to the nearest legume in early spring, which is why damage appears first on the row nearest the edge of the plot and on the side facing rough grass. They feed at night and shelter in the soil and litter by day. A cold late spring makes it worse by holding the seedlings small for longer while the weevils are already active.
source
Sourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Pea and bean weevil
- Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board — AHDB: Pulses — pea and bean weevil
Checked 2026-08-13
Usually seen: March, April, May, June
Preventing it
Ordered by how much difference each measure actually makes, not by how often it is repeated.
- Get the seedlings past the vulnerable stage rather than trying to keep the weevil out. Sow into warm soil or raise in modules and plant out with four or five true leaves, and give an early sowing a fleece or mesh cover for its first few weeks — the plants outgrow the damage and the covering comes off before flowering, so nothing is shut away from pollinators.
source
Sourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Pea and bean weevil — non-chemical control
- Garden Organic — Garden Organic (Henry Doubleday Research Association): Peas and beans — early crop protection
Checked 2026-08-13
- Water and feed a checked seedling so it grows away quickly. Vigour is the whole of the defence: the same amount of notching that halts a cold, dry, hungry seedling is invisible on one that is growing well.
source
Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence
- Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board — AHDB: Pulses — crop establishment and pest tolerance
Checked 2026-08-13
Dealing with it once it is there
- Nothing needs to be done to an established plant. Notched edges do not spread, do not become anything else, and do not reduce the crop on a pea or bean that is already climbing — the leaf area lost is a few per cent of a plant that makes a great deal of leaf.
source
GrowingHQ editorial positionhigh confidence
The management field would otherwise imply an intervention where the correct answer is to leave it alone.
- GrowingHQ editorial synthesis — GrowingHQ
Checked 2026-08-13
- Where a whole spring sowing is being held back, sow a replacement batch alongside rather than treating the first one. A later sowing goes into warmer soil, grows through the weevil's active period in a fortnight, and usually catches up with the one that was checked.
source
Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Pea and bean weevil
Checked 2026-08-13
Widely repeated, and not supported
Recorded so GrowingHQ can address them. These are not alternative approaches — they are things the evidence does not back.
“Notched pea and bean leaves mean slugs, so put slug pellets or beer traps out.”
Slugs rasp irregular holes anywhere on the leaf and leave slime; the weevil takes even semicircular bites from the margin only and leaves nothing behind. Slug controls do not reach a weevil, which spends the day in the soil, and beer traps put out for it catch slugs that were not the problem.
Horticultural consensusCommonly said, not supportedmoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Pea and bean weevil
Checked 2026-08-13
What it affects
On sprays and treatments
GrowingHQ does not tell anyone what to apply, at what rate, or how often. Pesticide approvals differ by country, change without notice, and the product label is legally binding — it is also the document you are holding. What is described here is cultural and physical control, which is what a home grower can act on without a label in front of them.