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Ornamentalshrub ornamentalStraightforward

Forsythia

Forsythia × intermedia

The yellow shrub in every front garden in March, and the one most often ruined by kindness. It flowers on wood made the previous summer, so the tidy-up most people give it in early spring cuts off the whole of the following year's display — which is why so many established forsythias flower only at the very top where the shears did not reach.

Position
Full sun or Partial shade
Water
low demand
Drainage
Moisture-retentive, Free-draining
Grows to
200–300 cm × 200–300 cm
Hardiness
H6
Flowers
March and April
Difficulty
Straightforward

Described view

A forsythia stem showing this year's flower buds on last summer's wood, beside a stem cut back after flowering with new growth breaking

August

Nothing to do

No sowing, planting, harvesting or pruning window falls in August.

Forsythia’s year

Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.

ActivityJFMAMJJASOND
PlantFebruary. March. October. November.
In flowerMarch. April.
PruneApril. May.
Take cuttingsOctober. November.

Timing that travels

The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.

Conditions it needs

Light
Full sun, Partial shade
Frost
Very hardy
Hardiness rating
H6 (RHS)
Grows best at
10–25 °C
Soil
Loam, Clay, Sandy, Chalky
Soil pH
5.5–8
Drainage
Moisture-retentive, Free-draining
Water needs
low
Drought
moderate tolerance
Waterlogging
moderate tolerance
Heat
good tolerance
Wind and exposure
good tolerance
Where these figures come from
LightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — position

Checked 2026-08-13

FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Hardiness ratingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings

Checked 2026-08-13

Grows best atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — temperature

Checked 2026-08-13

SoilSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Soil pHSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Plant FinderMissouri Botanical Garden: Forsythia × intermedia — culture

Checked 2026-08-13

DrainageSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On your soil

Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.

SoilVerdictWhy
Heavy clayWorks, with one conditionForsythia will crop on heavy clay, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
SandyPrefers this soilSandy suits Forsythia as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 8, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Sandy soil is among the soils it is recorded as suiting.
Chalky and alkalineGrows well hereForsythia grows perfectly well on chalky and alkaline without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
LoamPrefers this soilLoam suits Forsythia as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 8, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SiltyPrefers this soilSilty suits Forsythia as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 8, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
Peaty and acidWorks, with one conditionForsythia will crop on peaty and acid, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
Shallow over rockPrefers this soilShallow over rock suits Forsythia as it stands: The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting.
Made ground and urban soilWorks, with one conditionForsythia will crop on made ground and urban soil, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.

Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.

Space and spacing

Mature height
200–300 cm
Mature spread
200–300 cm
Rooting depth
60 cm
Spacing
150–200 cm apart
Where these figures come from
Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SpacingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — spacing

Checked 2026-08-13

How far apart to plant forsythiaThree forsythia plants drawn in a row at their recorded spacing of 150–200 cm between plants. The spacing is drawn to scale against a one metre rule; the plants themselves are symbols rather than scale drawings, so the distance between them is the part to read.150–200 cmone metre
Measured centre to centre. Plants set closer than this compete for light and water long before they look crowded, and the crowding cannot be undone once they are in.

Habit and ultimate size

What the plant becomes, rather than what it is when you buy it. The gap between the two is where most planting mistakes live.

Foliage
Deciduous
In a container
Not a realistic container plant
Where these figures come from
FoliageSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia × intermedia — foliage

Checked 2026-08-13

In a containerHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Growth rate
Fast — over about 60 cm a year
Ultimate height
200–300 cm
Ultimate spread
200–300 cm
Time to reach it
10–15 yearsSourced guidance
Where these figures come from
Growth rateSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia × intermedia — growth rate

Checked 2026-08-13

Ultimate heightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia × intermedia — ultimate height

Checked 2026-08-13

Ultimate spreadSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia × intermedia — ultimate spread

Checked 2026-08-13

Time to reach itSourced guidancelow confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia × intermedia — time to ultimate size

Checked 2026-08-13

Cutting it back. Breaks readily from old wood, so an overgrown plant can be cut to 45 cm and rebuilt. It flowers on the previous summer's growth, so this costs one year's display whenever it is done — which is why the rolling removal of the oldest third each year after flowering is the better method.
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Where and how you can grow it

Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.

MethodSuitabilityWhat it needs
Open groundWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Traditional dug bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Raised bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

ContainerMarginal
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Growing it

  • PruningPrune as soon as the flowers fade, cutting a quarter to a third of the oldest stems right down to the base. It flowers on wood made the previous summer, so pruning in winter or early spring — the moment when the shrub looks untidy and the secateurs are to hand — removes every flower bud for the coming year. A forsythia that flowers only at the top has been trimmed at the wrong time for years.
  • PropagationHardwood cuttings taken in late autumn and pushed into a slit trench of gritty soil root without any equipment at all. Forsythia is among the easiest shrubs in the garden to make more of, which is worth knowing before buying a second one.
  • WateringWater for the first year or two and then not at all. Forsythia is about as tough and self-sufficient as a garden shrub gets, tolerating dry soil, clay, pollution and neglect, and an established one has no watering requirement in a British garden whatsoever. Where a mature plant flowers poorly the cause is nearly always pruning at the wrong time rather than any cultural shortfall — it flowers on wood made the previous summer, so a spring tidy-up removes the entire display.
  • FeedingRarely necessary. A spring mulch is enough, and a general feed after pruning is worth it only where a shrub has been cut back hard and is being asked to regrow a framework. Feeding will not improve the flowering of a forsythia that is being cut at the wrong time of year, which is what is actually wrong with most of them, and high-nitrogen feed makes the problem worse by producing more of the vigorous leafy growth that tempts people to trim it.
Where this guidance comes from
PruningSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — pruning

Checked 2026-08-13

PropagationSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — propagation

Checked 2026-08-13

WateringSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

FeedingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

Where to make a pruning cutFour stems compared. The first is cut cleanly on a slope about five millimetres above an outward-facing bud, sloping away from it, and is labelled correct. The second is cut too far above the bud, leaving a long stub that dies back. The third is cut too close, into the bud itself, which loses the shoot. The fourth is cut sloping towards the bud so rain runs onto it rather than away, which rots it. In every case the bud points outwards, away from the centre of the plant.Correct5 mm, sloping awayToo highstub dies backToo closebud lostSloping inrain sits on the bud
The bud you cut to becomes the new shoot, and it grows in the direction it points — which is why an outward-facing bud opens the plant up and an inward-facing one crosses the middle.
Four ways to make more plantsFour propagation operations compared, each showing where the separation is made and what must be present on both sides of it. Division: a clump cut between crowns, with roots and at least one growing point on every piece. Stem cutting: a shoot cut just below a leaf node, because the node is where roots form, with the lower leaves removed. Runner: a plantlet already rooting where it touches the ground, severed from the parent only after its own roots have taken. Offset: a young shoot at the base of the parent, separated with its own roots attached. In each case the cut is marked and the part that must be retained is labelled.Divisioncut between crownsroots on every piececut below a nodeStem cuttingroots form at the nodestrip the lower leavesRunnerlet it root firstthen sever the linkOffseta shoot at the basetake its roots with it
The rule is the same in all four: the new piece needs both a growing point and roots of its own. A cutting is the exception that has to make its roots afterwards, which is why the node matters so much.

What goes wrong

ProblemHow oftenNotes
Capsid bugoccasional
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Sources for this page

GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Plant Finder · Royal Horticultural Society

Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-14.

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