Forsythia
Forsythia × intermedia
The yellow shrub in every front garden in March, and the one most often ruined by kindness. It flowers on wood made the previous summer, so the tidy-up most people give it in early spring cuts off the whole of the following year's display — which is why so many established forsythias flower only at the very top where the shears did not reach.
- Position
- Full sun or Partial shade
- Water
- low demand
- Drainage
- Moisture-retentive, Free-draining
- Grows to
- 200–300 cm × 200–300 cm
- Hardiness
- H6
- Flowers
- March and April
- Difficulty
- Straightforward
Described view
A forsythia stem showing this year's flower buds on last summer's wood, beside a stem cut back after flowering with new growth breaking
August
Nothing to do
No sowing, planting, harvesting or pruning window falls in August.
Forsythia’s year
Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.
| Activity | J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plant | February. | March. | October. | November. | ||||||||
| In flower | March. | April. | ||||||||||
| Prune | April. | May. | ||||||||||
| Take cuttings | October. | November. |
Timing that travels
The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.
Conditions it needs
- Light
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Frost
- Very hardy
- Hardiness rating
- H6 (RHS)
- Grows best at
- 10–25 °C
- Soil
- Loam, Clay, Sandy, Chalky
- Soil pH
- 5.5–8
- Drainage
- Moisture-retentive, Free-draining
- Water needs
- low
- Drought
- moderate tolerance
- Waterlogging
- moderate tolerance
- Heat
- good tolerance
- Wind and exposure
- good tolerance
Where these figures come from
- LightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — position
Checked 2026-08-13
- FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — hardiness
Checked 2026-08-13
- Hardiness ratingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings
Checked 2026-08-13
- Grows best atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — temperature
Checked 2026-08-13
- SoilSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — soil
Checked 2026-08-13
- Soil pHSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Plant Finder — Missouri Botanical Garden: Forsythia × intermedia — culture
Checked 2026-08-13
- DrainageSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — soil
Checked 2026-08-13
- Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
On your soil
Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.
| Soil | Verdict | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Heavy clay | Works, with one condition | Forsythia will crop on heavy clay, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
| Sandy | Prefers this soil | Sandy suits Forsythia as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 8, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Sandy soil is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. |
| Chalky and alkaline | Grows well here | Forsythia grows perfectly well on chalky and alkaline without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose. |
| Loam | Prefers this soil | Loam suits Forsythia as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 8, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering. |
| Silty | Prefers this soil | Silty suits Forsythia as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 8, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering. |
| Peaty and acid | Works, with one condition | Forsythia will crop on peaty and acid, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
| Shallow over rock | Prefers this soil | Shallow over rock suits Forsythia as it stands: The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. |
| Made ground and urban soil | Works, with one condition | Forsythia will crop on made ground and urban soil, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.
Space and spacing
- Mature height
- 200–300 cm
- Mature spread
- 200–300 cm
- Rooting depth
- 60 cm
- Spacing
- 150–200 cm apart
Where these figures come from
- Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- SpacingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — spacing
Checked 2026-08-13
Habit and ultimate size
What the plant becomes, rather than what it is when you buy it. The gap between the two is where most planting mistakes live.
- Foliage
- Deciduous
- In a container
- Not a realistic container plant
Where these figures come from
- FoliageSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia × intermedia — foliage
Checked 2026-08-13
- In a containerHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Growth rate
- Fast — over about 60 cm a year
- Ultimate height
- 200–300 cm
- Ultimate spread
- 200–300 cm
- Time to reach it
- 10–15 yearsSourced guidance
Where these figures come from
- Growth rateSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia × intermedia — growth rate
Checked 2026-08-13
- Ultimate heightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia × intermedia — ultimate height
Checked 2026-08-13
- Ultimate spreadSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia × intermedia — ultimate spread
Checked 2026-08-13
- Time to reach itSourced guidancelow confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia × intermedia — time to ultimate size
Checked 2026-08-13
source
Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
Where and how you can grow it
Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.
| Method | Suitability | What it needs |
|---|---|---|
| Open ground | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Traditional dug bed | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Raised bed | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Container | MarginalsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 |
Growing it
- PruningPrune as soon as the flowers fade, cutting a quarter to a third of the oldest stems right down to the base. It flowers on wood made the previous summer, so pruning in winter or early spring — the moment when the shrub looks untidy and the secateurs are to hand — removes every flower bud for the coming year. A forsythia that flowers only at the top has been trimmed at the wrong time for years.
- PropagationHardwood cuttings taken in late autumn and pushed into a slit trench of gritty soil root without any equipment at all. Forsythia is among the easiest shrubs in the garden to make more of, which is worth knowing before buying a second one.
- WateringWater for the first year or two and then not at all. Forsythia is about as tough and self-sufficient as a garden shrub gets, tolerating dry soil, clay, pollution and neglect, and an established one has no watering requirement in a British garden whatsoever. Where a mature plant flowers poorly the cause is nearly always pruning at the wrong time rather than any cultural shortfall — it flowers on wood made the previous summer, so a spring tidy-up removes the entire display.
- FeedingRarely necessary. A spring mulch is enough, and a general feed after pruning is worth it only where a shrub has been cut back hard and is being asked to regrow a framework. Feeding will not improve the flowering of a forsythia that is being cut at the wrong time of year, which is what is actually wrong with most of them, and high-nitrogen feed makes the problem worse by producing more of the vigorous leafy growth that tempts people to trim it.
Where this guidance comes from
- PruningSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — pruning
Checked 2026-08-13
- PropagationSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — propagation
Checked 2026-08-13
- WateringSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — cultivation
Checked 2026-08-13
- FeedingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Forsythia — cultivation
Checked 2026-08-13
What goes wrong
| Problem | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Capsid bug | occasionalsourceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence No external citation — see the evidence type above. Checked 2026-08-13 |
Sources for this page
GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Plant Finder · Royal Horticultural Society
Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-14.
If something is wrong with it
- Healthy growth but no flowers — 2 causes GrowingHQ holds for forsythia
Something else? Work through it with the diagnostic tool.