GrowingHQ
VegetablealliumStraightforward

Garlic

Allium sativum

The crop that most rewards planting at the right time of year and punishes getting it wrong in a way nothing else does. Garlic needs a period of cold to split into cloves, so it is planted in autumn and lifted the following summer. Planted in spring it grows perfectly well and produces a single undivided round instead of a head — not a failure of care, but a failure of timing.

Position
Full sun
Water
low demand
Drainage
Free-draining
Grows to
45–60 cm × 15 cm
Hardiness
H6
Harvest
June and July
Difficulty
Straightforward

Described view

Curling flower stems rising from a row of hardneck garlic plants, one being cut at the base

August

Nothing to do

No sowing, planting, harvesting or pruning window falls in August.

Coming next month: plant.

Garlic’s year

Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.

ActivityJFMAMJJASOND
PlantSeptember. October. November.
HarvestJune. July.
DormantJanuary. December.

Timing that travels

The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.

  • Plantfrom 6 weeks before to 4 weeks after your first autumn frost
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — when to plant

    Checked 2026-08-13

    Autumn planting. The cold period through winter is what makes the clove divide into a head.

Conditions it needs

Light
Full sun
Direct sun
6 hours a day or more
Frost
Very hardy
Hardiness rating
H6 (RHS)
Survives down to
-10–0 °CSourced guidanceDepends on conditions
Germinates at
0–10 °C
Soil
Loam, Sandy
Soil pH
6–7.5
Drainage
Free-draining
Water needs
low
Drought
moderate tolerance
Waterlogging
poor tolerance
Heat
moderate tolerance
Wind and exposure
good tolerance
Where these figures come from
LightSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — position

Checked 2026-08-13

Direct sunHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence

Cold is a requirement rather than a threat: garlic needs it to form cloves.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Hardiness ratingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings

Checked 2026-08-13

Survives down toSourced guidanceDepends on conditionshigh confidence

Applies when: Survives well below freezing in the ground; the risk in a British winter is waterlogging, not cold.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Germinates atHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

Not germination in the usual sense — garlic is grown from cloves, and the cold period below about 10 °C is what triggers bulb formation.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SoilSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Soil pHSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Home and Garden Information CenterClemson Cooperative Extension: Garlic — culture

Checked 2026-08-13

DrainageSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

WaterloggingHorticultural consensushigh confidence

Sitting in wet ground over winter is the commonest cause of failure in Britain.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On your soil

Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.

SoilVerdictWhy
Heavy clayWorks, with one conditionGarlic will crop on heavy clay, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
SandyPrefers this soilSandy suits Garlic as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Sandy soil is among the soils it is recorded as suiting.
Chalky and alkalineGrows well hereGarlic grows perfectly well on chalky and alkaline without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
LoamPrefers this soilLoam suits Garlic as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SiltyPrefers this soilSilty suits Garlic as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
Peaty and acidWorks, with one conditionGarlic will crop on peaty and acid, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
Shallow over rockPrefers this soilShallow over rock suits Garlic as it stands: The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting.
Made ground and urban soilWorks, with one conditionGarlic will crop on made ground and urban soil, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.

Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.

Space and spacing

Mature height
45–60 cm
Mature spread
15 cm
Rooting depth
30 cm
Spacing
15 cm apart
Row spacing
30 cm
Where these figures come from
Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SpacingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — spacing

Checked 2026-08-13

Row spacingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — spacing

Checked 2026-08-13

How far apart to plant garlicThree garlic plants drawn in a row at their recorded spacing of 15 cm between plants, with a second row 30 cm away. The spacing is drawn to scale against a one metre rule; the plants themselves are symbols rather than scale drawings, so the distance between them is the part to read.15 cm30 cm between rows
Measured centre to centre. Plants set closer than this compete for light and water long before they look crowded, and the crowding cannot be undone once they are in.

In a container

Minimum volume
10 litres or more
Minimum depth
20 cm
Where the container figures come from
Minimum volumeHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Minimum depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Works better in containers than onions do, because the crop is worth more per plant and a raised container solves the winter drainage problem.

Where and how you can grow it

Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.

MethodSuitabilityWhat it needs
Open groundWell suited
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic

Checked 2026-08-13

Free-draining ground over winter
Raised bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

The best option on heavy ground, because winter drainage is the whole problem.
Traditional dug bedWell suited
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

ContainerWorkable
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic in containers

Checked 2026-08-13

A pot left outdoors through winter so the cold requirement is met
PolytunnelMarginal
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Agriculture and Horticulture Development BoardAHDB: Garlic — vernalisation

Checked 2026-08-13

HydroponicsMarginal
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

Garlic needs a sustained cold period to split into cloves. An indoor system held at a comfortable growing temperature produces a single undivided round — not a failure of technique but of the plant's requirements being incompatible with the environment.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

GreenhouseMarginal
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Agriculture and Horticulture Development BoardAHDB: Garlic — vernalisation

Checked 2026-08-13

WindowsillNot suitable
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No cold period, so no bulb.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Growing it

  • PlantingSplit a bulb into cloves at planting time, not before, and push each one in point upwards with the tip about 2 cm below the surface. Plant certified seed garlic rather than a supermarket bulb, which may carry virus and is often a cultivar suited to a warmer climate.2–5 cm
  • WateringRarely needs watering in a British winter and spring. Stop watering entirely once the leaves begin to yellow.
  • HarvestingOn hardneck cultivars, cut off the flower stem — the scape — when it curls. It is edible and worth eating, and removing it sends the plant's resources into the bulb.
  • FeedingGarlic wants a firm, well-drained bed with compost worked in the autumn before planting rather than fresh manure, which encourages rot. A nitrogen feed in early spring as growth resumes helps bulb size; stop feeding once the bulbs begin to swell or they store badly.
Where this guidance comes from
PlantingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — planting

Checked 2026-08-13

WateringHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — watering

Checked 2026-08-13

HarvestingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — scapes

Checked 2026-08-13

FeedingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

Is it worth putting under cover?

Whether it will grow there is on the methods table above. This is whether the space is well spent, which is a different question and usually the one being asked.

StructureWhat protection is worthWhat decides it
GreenhouseWorse under cover
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

A genuine cold requirement. Garlic needs several weeks below about 10 °C to divide into cloves, and a bulb grown warm produces a single undivided round.This is the clearest counterproductive case in the file, because it is a mechanism rather than a matter of degree. The protection does not merely waste space; it prevents the crop.
PolytunnelWorse under cover
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

The same cold requirement, slightly less badly denied because a tunnel runs colder overnight.

Growing it without soil

Nearly anything can be grown in a soilless system by somebody with enough equipment. The useful question is whether it is worth it, in which technique, and what goes wrong.

Not worth it

It can be made to grow, but a soilless system is the wrong tool — usually because of rooting volume, running cost, or a result no better than a pot of compost.

source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

Garlic needs a sustained cold period to split into cloves. An indoor system held at a comfortable growing temperature produces a single undivided round — not a failure of technique but of the plant's requirements being incompatible with the environment.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

The clearest case in this file of a crop that is defeated by what a controlled environment is FOR — the absence of winter.

Techniques that suit it

  • Ebb and flowA bed of inert medium floods and drains on a timer. The medium holds moisture between floods, which makes it far more tolerant of interruption than NFT.
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Root space
Modest, but irrelevant given the cold requirement.
pH band
5.5–6.5
Where these figures come from
Root spaceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

pH bandSourced guidancehigh confidence

Outside roughly this band, individual nutrients become unavailable even when they are present in the solution — which is why a crop can starve in a full reservoir.

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic solution management — pH

Checked 2026-08-13

No nutrient recipes here

GrowingHQ records pH bands, which are measurable properties of nutrient availability, and deliberately records no EC or PPM targets and no mixing instructions. Published targets vary by cultivar, growth stage, water source and technique, and the figures that apply to your system are on the product you bought.

Harvesting

Time from sowing or planting: 32–40 weeks
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

From autumn planting to midsummer lifting — one of the longest occupations of ground in the vegetable garden.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — timing

Checked 2026-08-13

  • When it is readyLift when about half the leaves have yellowed, usually midsummer. Left too long the bulb splits its wrapper and will not store; lifted too early it has not filled.
  • How to pick itLoosen with a fork and lift; never pull by the stem.
  • Keeping itDry for two to three weeks in an airy place out of direct sun, then store cool and dry. Softneck cultivars keep considerably longer than hardnecks and are the ones traditionally plaited.
Where the harvest guidance comes from
When it is readySourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

How to pick itHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Keeping itSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Storing garlic

Checked 2026-08-13

What goes wrong

ProblemHow oftenNotes
Scape formation in hardneck garliccommon
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Garlic — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

On hardneck cultivars, every year. Snap it off and cook it — the bulb fills better without it.
Bulb ripeningcommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Ripening rather than a fault. The yellowing tops are the signal to stop watering and lift.
Allium white rotoccasional
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Onion white rot

Checked 2026-08-13

The reason not to plant supermarket garlic or accept cloves from an unknown plot.
Aphidsuncommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Grown with, grown after, grown instead

Every relationship states its mechanism. A pairing nobody can explain is a pairing nobody has checked, and it does not go in.

  • Same rotation groupOnion
    Both Allium species sharing white rot and other soil-borne allium problems, so they occupy one rotation group and must not follow each other.
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Crop rotation

    Checked 2026-08-13

  • Closely relatedChives
    Both Allium species with the same soil-borne disease risks, so a permanent chive clump on ground intended for garlic rotation is worth reconsidering.
    source

    Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Alliums

    Checked 2026-08-13

Safety and edibility

Cats and dogsCan be dangerous — treat as urgent

Listed as harmful to cats or dogs

Garlic is listed as harmful if eaten. The same organosulfur chemistry as onion and more concentrated by weight, so a smaller quantity does the same damage to red blood cells. The delay between eating it and the anaemia appearing is what makes it dangerous: an animal seems fine for a day or two.
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center — toxic and non-toxic plant listAmerican Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals: Allium sativum — toxic plants list
  • Veterinary Poisons Information ServiceVPIS, London: Allium sativum — clinical effects

Checked 2026-08-13

Affected parts: bulb, leaf.

  • Pets and livestockpetsGarlic, like other alliums, damages red blood cells in dogs and cats, with cats more sensitive again. Drying bulbs left within reach are a realistic exposure route.
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Plants harmful to pets

    Checked 2026-08-13

    Dry and store the crop where pets cannot reach it.

Sources for this page

Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board · GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Home and Garden Information Center · Royal Horticultural Society

Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-13.

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