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Ornamentalshrub ornamentalStraightforward

Hydrangea

Hydrangea macrophylla

The shrub whose flower colour follows the soil, which is the most-asked ornamental question in Britain and the most often mis-stated. It applies to mophead and lacecap hydrangeas only, it works in one direction far more easily than the other, and it does nothing at all to a white cultivar.

Position
Partial shade or Dappled shade
Water
high demand
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Grows to
100–200 cm × 100–250 cm
Hardiness
H5
Flowers
July to September
Difficulty
Straightforward

Described view

The same hydrangea cultivar flowering blue on acid soil and pink on alkaline soil, side by side, with a white cultivar showing no change

August

In flower

Coming next month: plant.

Hydrangea’s year

Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.

ActivityJFMAMJJASOND
PlantMarch. April. September. October.
In flowerJuly. August. September.
PruneMarch. April.

Timing that travels

The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.

Conditions it needs

Light
Partial shade, Dappled shade
Frost
Hardy
Hardiness rating
H5 (RHS)
Grows best at
15–24 °C
Soil
Loam, Clay
Soil pH
5–7
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Water needs
high
Drought
poor tolerance
Waterlogging
moderate tolerance
Heat
poor tolerance
Wind and exposure
poor tolerance
Where these figures come from
LightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea — position

Checked 2026-08-13

FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Hardiness ratingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings

Checked 2026-08-13

Grows best atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea — temperature

Checked 2026-08-13

SoilSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Soil pHSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Plant FinderMissouri Botanical Garden: Hydrangea macrophylla — culture

Checked 2026-08-13

DrainageSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

The name comes from the Greek for water. It shows stress fast.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

Wilts visibly in full afternoon sun even when the soil is moist.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On your soil

Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.

SoilVerdictWhy
Heavy clayPrefers this soilHeavy clay suits Hydrangea as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5 to 7, and this soil is in that range. Clay is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SandyWorks, with one conditionHydrangea will crop on sandy, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Chalky and alkalineStruggles hereHydrangea struggles on chalky and alkaline: The soil is substantially too alkaline for it: it wants pH 5 to 7, and this soil sits around 7.8 to 8.5. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering. A container or a raised bed of imported soil sidesteps the problem entirely.
LoamPrefers this soilLoam suits Hydrangea as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5 to 7, and this soil is in that range. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SiltyGrows well hereHydrangea grows perfectly well on silty without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
Peaty and acidGrows well hereHydrangea grows perfectly well on peaty and acid without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
Shallow over rockWorks, with one conditionHydrangea will crop on shallow over rock, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Made ground and urban soilGrows well hereHydrangea grows perfectly well on made ground and urban soil without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.

Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.

Space and spacing

Mature height
100–200 cm
Mature spread
100–250 cm
Rooting depth
50 cm
Spacing
120–180 cm apart
Where these figures come from
Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SpacingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea — spacing

Checked 2026-08-13

How far apart to plant hydrangeaThree hydrangea plants drawn in a row at their recorded spacing of 120–180 cm between plants. The spacing is drawn to scale against a one metre rule; the plants themselves are symbols rather than scale drawings, so the distance between them is the part to read.120–180 cmone metre
Measured centre to centre. Plants set closer than this compete for light and water long before they look crowded, and the crowding cannot be undone once they are in.

In a container

Minimum volume
30 litres or more
Minimum depth
35 cm
Where the container figures come from
Minimum volumeHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Minimum depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

A good container plant provided it is never allowed to dry out, which in practice means daily watering in summer and a shaded position for the pot itself. Loam-based compost holds moisture far better than multipurpose.

Habit and ultimate size

What the plant becomes, rather than what it is when you buy it. The gap between the two is where most planting mistakes live.

Foliage
Deciduous
In a container
Good in a container long-term
Where these figures come from
FoliageSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea macrophylla — foliage

Checked 2026-08-13

In a containerHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Growth rate
Moderate — roughly 30–60 cm a year
Ultimate height
100–200 cm
Ultimate spread
100–250 cm
Time to reach it
10–15 yearsSourced guidance
Where these figures come from
Growth rateSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea macrophylla — growth rate

Checked 2026-08-13

Ultimate heightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea macrophylla — ultimate height

Checked 2026-08-13

Ultimate spreadSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea macrophylla — ultimate spread

Checked 2026-08-13

Time to reach itSourced guidancelow confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea macrophylla — time to ultimate size

Checked 2026-08-13

Cutting it back. Cut out a third of the oldest stems at the base each spring rather than shearing the whole plant over. Mophead and lacecap hydrangeas flower on wood made the previous year, so an all-over trim in spring removes the entire season's flowers.
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Where and how you can grow it

Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.

MethodSuitabilityWhat it needs
Open groundWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Traditional dug bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Raised bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

ContainerWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

30 litres; Reliable watering — it will not forgive a dry fortnight
HydroponicsNot suitable
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Growing it

  • FeedingBlue flowers require acid soil, roughly pH 5.5 or below, where aluminium is available to the plant; above about pH 6.5 the same cultivar flowers pink. Making an acid soil alkaline is easy; making an alkaline soil reliably acid is not, so a blue hydrangea on chalk is a container of ericaceous compost rather than a soil project. White cultivars do not change colour at any pH.
  • PruningCut back to the first strong pair of buds below each faded head in spring, and take out a couple of the oldest stems at the base. Mophead hydrangeas flower on wood made the previous year, so a hard cut in spring removes the flowers.
  • WateringThe name means water vessel and the plant means it. Hydrangeas are shallow-rooted and wilt visibly on hot afternoons even in moist soil; the test is whether they have recovered by the following morning, and if they have not, the soil is genuinely dry. Water thoroughly at the base and mulch, particularly for plants in containers or under the rain shadow of a wall.
  • MulchingMulch generously every spring with garden compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure, keeping it off the stems. This is the single most useful thing done for a hydrangea in a British garden and it is doing the watering job rather than the feeding one — the roots are shallow and spreading, the leaves are large and lose water fast, and a mulched plant wilts far less in July than an unmulched one in the same border. Do not mulch with mushroom compost, which is limy and will shift a blue hydrangea towards pink.
Where this guidance comes from
FeedingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea — flower colour

Checked 2026-08-13

PruningSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangea — pruning

Checked 2026-08-13

WateringSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangeas — watering

Checked 2026-08-13

MulchingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Hydrangeas — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

Where to make a pruning cutFour stems compared. The first is cut cleanly on a slope about five millimetres above an outward-facing bud, sloping away from it, and is labelled correct. The second is cut too far above the bud, leaving a long stub that dies back. The third is cut too close, into the bud itself, which loses the shoot. The fourth is cut sloping towards the bud so rain runs onto it rather than away, which rots it. In every case the bud points outwards, away from the centre of the plant.Correct5 mm, sloping awayToo highstub dies backToo closebud lostSloping inrain sits on the bud
The bud you cut to becomes the new shoot, and it grows in the direction it points — which is why an outward-facing bud opens the plant up and an inward-facing one crosses the middle.

What goes wrong

ProblemHow oftenNotes
Capsid bugcommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Pruned at the wrong timecommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Autumn deadheading takes next summer's buds; leave the heads on until spring.
Powdery mildewoccasional
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Start from what you can see

Sources for this page

GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Plant Finder · Royal Horticultural Society

Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-14.

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