GrowingHQ
Herbperennial herbStraightforward

Lovage

Levisticum officinale

An intensely celery-flavoured perennial that reaches two metres and comes back every year with no attention whatever. One plant is enough for any household — the flavour is far stronger than celery, and the plant is large enough to shade out whatever is behind it.

Position
Full sun or Partial shade
Water
moderate demand
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Grows to
150–200 cm × 60–90 cm
Hardiness
H6
Harvest
April to August
Difficulty
Straightforward

August

Harvest

Lovage’s year

Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.

ActivityJFMAMJJASOND
Sow outdoorsApril. May.
HarvestApril. May. June. July. August.
DivideMarch. April.

Timing that travels

The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.

What kind of herb this is

Herbs are a kitchen grouping rather than a botanical one, and the plants in it want opposite things. This is the one distinction that decides how to treat it.

Moisture-loving perennial herb

Growing regime
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — growing

Checked 2026-08-13

Wants damp ground and tolerates shade, which is the opposite of the Mediterranean set. Most will spread if allowed to, so the question is usually containment rather than establishment.

Treated the same way: chives, fennel, garlic chives, lemon balm, mint, sorrel. The herb bed, split by regime

Indoors
Not worth growing indoors
Where the indoor assessment comes from
IndoorsSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — growing indoors

Checked 2026-08-13

Almost any herb will sit on a windowsill in July. This is about whether it is still there in March, which is the part a pot on a supermarket shelf does not tell you.

What happens when it flowers

On a herb this is rarely a problem and rarely nothing. It is the point at which the plant stops being what you grew it for — by a lot, a little, or not at all.

Leaves coarsen
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

The seed is a crop too

Cut the flowering stems out to keep the leaves coming, or let one run up for seed. A mature lovage reaches two metres, so this is as much about size as about flavour.

source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — growing

Checked 2026-08-13

Conditions it needs

Light
Full sun, Partial shade
Frost
Very hardy
Hardiness rating
H6 (RHS)
Grows best at
12–25 °C
Germinates at
10–20 °C
Soil
Loam, Clay
Soil pH
6–7.5
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Water needs
moderate
Drought
moderate tolerance
Waterlogging
moderate tolerance
Heat
good tolerance
Wind and exposure
moderate tolerance
Where these figures come from
LightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — position

Checked 2026-08-13

FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Hardiness ratingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings

Checked 2026-08-13

Grows best atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — temperature

Checked 2026-08-13

Germinates atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Seed germination temperatures

Checked 2026-08-13

SoilSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Soil pHSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Plant FinderMissouri Botanical Garden: Levisticum officinale — culture

Checked 2026-08-13

DrainageSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On your soil

Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.

SoilVerdictWhy
Heavy clayPrefers this soilHeavy clay suits Lovage as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. Clay is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SandyGrows well hereLovage grows perfectly well on sandy without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
Chalky and alkalineGrows well hereLovage grows perfectly well on chalky and alkaline without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
LoamPrefers this soilLoam suits Lovage as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SiltyGrows well hereLovage grows perfectly well on silty without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
Peaty and acidGrows well hereLovage grows perfectly well on peaty and acid without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
Shallow over rockGrows well hereLovage grows perfectly well on shallow over rock without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
Made ground and urban soilGrows well hereLovage grows perfectly well on made ground and urban soil without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.

Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.

Space and spacing

Mature height
150–200 cm
Mature spread
60–90 cm
Rooting depth
60 cm
Spacing
60–90 cm apart
Where these figures come from
Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SpacingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — spacing

Checked 2026-08-13

How far apart to plant lovageThree lovage plants drawn in a row at their recorded spacing of 60–90 cm between plants. The spacing is drawn to scale against a one metre rule; the plants themselves are symbols rather than scale drawings, so the distance between them is the part to read.60–90 cmone metre
Measured centre to centre. Plants set closer than this compete for light and water long before they look crowded, and the crowding cannot be undone once they are in.

Where and how you can grow it

Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.

MethodSuitabilityWhat it needs
Open groundWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Traditional dug bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Raised bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

ContainerMarginal
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Too large to be sensible in anything but a half-barrel
HydroponicsMarginal
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

Two metres of plant with a taproot, grown for a leaf used a few at a time. The ratio is worse than for any other herb here.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

GreenhouseMarginal
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Agriculture and Horticulture Development BoardAHDB: Herbs under protection

Checked 2026-08-13

PolytunnelMarginal
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Agriculture and Horticulture Development BoardAHDB: Herbs under protection

Checked 2026-08-13

WindowsillMarginal
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing herbs and salads indoors

Checked 2026-08-13

Growing it

  • PruningCut the whole plant to the ground in early summer after the first flush. It regrows with tender leaves rather than the coarse ones that follow flowering.
  • HarvestingUse it sparingly. Lovage is several times stronger than celery, and a single leaf is enough for a pan of soup — most people's first attempt uses far too much.
  • PropagationDivide the crown in early spring before growth is far advanced, making sure each piece has a bud and a share of the thick fleshy root. Lovage is a big plant and one division is usually enough for any garden. It also comes readily from fresh seed sown as soon as it ripens in late summer.
  • WateringLovage wants a moisture-retentive soil and will wilt hard on a light one in July, though it recovers overnight. Water established plants in a drought and mulch the crown in spring; a plant that dries badly runs up to flower early and the leaves coarsen. It is otherwise about as self-sufficient as a herb can be.
  • FeedingA mulch of garden compost in spring is enough and more than most plants of this size ask for. Lovage reaches two metres from a standing start every year and does it on ordinary soil; adding fertiliser produces an even larger plant, which is rarely what anybody wants.
  • PlantingPlant one, at the back, in spring. The flavour is far stronger than celery and a single plant supplies any household; at two metres tall it will shade out whatever is behind it, so put it on the north side of a bed where that does no harm. It is long-lived and dislikes being moved, so choose the spot properly.
Where this guidance comes from
PruningSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — care

Checked 2026-08-13

HarvestingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — use

Checked 2026-08-13

PropagationSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

WateringSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

FeedingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

PlantingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — planting

Checked 2026-08-13

Where to make a pruning cutFour stems compared. The first is cut cleanly on a slope about five millimetres above an outward-facing bud, sloping away from it, and is labelled correct. The second is cut too far above the bud, leaving a long stub that dies back. The third is cut too close, into the bud itself, which loses the shoot. The fourth is cut sloping towards the bud so rain runs onto it rather than away, which rots it. In every case the bud points outwards, away from the centre of the plant.Correct5 mm, sloping awayToo highstub dies backToo closebud lostSloping inrain sits on the bud
The bud you cut to becomes the new shoot, and it grows in the direction it points — which is why an outward-facing bud opens the plant up and an inward-facing one crosses the middle.
Four ways to make more plantsFour propagation operations compared, each showing where the separation is made and what must be present on both sides of it. Division: a clump cut between crowns, with roots and at least one growing point on every piece. Stem cutting: a shoot cut just below a leaf node, because the node is where roots form, with the lower leaves removed. Runner: a plantlet already rooting where it touches the ground, severed from the parent only after its own roots have taken. Offset: a young shoot at the base of the parent, separated with its own roots attached. In each case the cut is marked and the part that must be retained is labelled.Divisioncut between crownsroots on every piececut below a nodeStem cuttingroots form at the nodestrip the lower leavesRunnerlet it root firstthen sever the linkOffseta shoot at the basetake its roots with it
The rule is the same in all four: the new piece needs both a growing point and roots of its own. A cutting is the exception that has to make its roots afterwards, which is why the node matters so much.

Is it worth putting under cover?

Whether it will grow there is on the methods table above. This is whether the space is well spent, which is a different question and usually the one being asked.

StructureWhat protection is worthWhat decides it
GreenhouseNo real benefit
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Height. Lovage reaches two metres and is a completely hardy perennial that wants a corner of the garden, not a corner of the greenhouse.
PolytunnelNo real benefit
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Height.

On a windowsill

Does not work indoors
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

How long the crop is actually productive on an ordinary British windowsill without added light.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Not a windowsill crop. The reason is given — usually light, root volume or sheer size. Size and a taproot. Two metres tall outdoors, and there is no small version of it.

Growing it without soil

Nearly anything can be grown in a soilless system by somebody with enough equipment. The useful question is whether it is worth it, in which technique, and what goes wrong.

Not worth it

It can be made to grow, but a soilless system is the wrong tool — usually because of rooting volume, running cost, or a result no better than a pot of compost.

source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

Two metres of plant with a taproot, grown for a leaf used a few at a time. The ratio is worse than for any other herb here.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

A single plant supplies a household. Two metres of it in a system supplies a household and nothing else fits.

Techniques that suit it

  • Drip-fed mediumSolution is dripped into an inert medium around each plant. The most forgiving technique and the one that suits large, long-season, heavy crops.
Horticultural consensusDepends on conditionsmoderate confidence

Applies when: Deep medium only.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Root space
Very large, with a deep taproot.
pH band
5.5–6.5
Where these figures come from
Root spaceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

pH bandSourced guidancehigh confidence

Outside roughly this band, individual nutrients become unavailable even when they are present in the solution — which is why a crop can starve in a full reservoir.

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic solution management — pH

Checked 2026-08-13

No nutrient recipes here

GrowingHQ records pH bands, which are measurable properties of nutrient availability, and deliberately records no EC or PPM targets and no mixing instructions. Published targets vary by cultivar, growth stage, water source and technique, and the figures that apply to your system are on the product you bought.

Harvesting

  • When it is readyPick young leaves from spring until midsummer; they are at their best before the plant flowers and become coarse and very strong afterwards. Cut the whole plant down after flowering and it produces a fresh flush of tender leaves. Seed is gathered when the heads turn brown, and the hollow stems are cut young for candying or as a celery substitute.
  • How to pick itPick individual leaves from the outside. Use sparingly — the flavour is several times stronger than celery — and freeze rather than dry.
Where the harvest guidance comes from
When it is readySourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Lovage — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

How to pick itHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

What goes wrong

ProblemHow oftenNotes
Aphidsoccasional
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Sources for this page

Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board · GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Plant Finder · Royal Horticultural Society

Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-14.