Passionflower
Passiflora caerulea
An extraordinary-looking flower on a plant that is far tougher than it appears — the blue passionflower is hardy in most of Britain against a wall, grows several metres in a season, and produces orange egg-shaped fruits in a good summer that are edible and not worth eating.
- Position
- Full sun or Partial shade
- Water
- moderate demand
- Drainage
- Free-draining
- Grows to
- 400–900 cm × 200–400 cm
- Hardiness
- H4
- Harvest
- September and October
- Difficulty
- Straightforward
August
In flower
Coming next month: harvest.
Passionflower’s year
Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.
| Activity | J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plant | May. | June. | ||||||||||
| In flower | June. | July. | August. | September. | ||||||||
| Harvest | September. | October. | ||||||||||
| Prune | March. | April. |
Timing that travels
The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.
Conditions it needs
- Light
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Frost
- Hardy
- Hardiness rating
- H4 (RHS)
- Grows best at
- 12–28 °C
- Soil
- Loam, Sandy, Chalky
- Soil pH
- 6–7.5
- Drainage
- Free-draining
- Water needs
- moderate
- Drought
- moderate tolerance
- Waterlogging
- poor tolerance
- Heat
- good tolerance
- Wind and exposure
- poor tolerance
Where these figures come from
- LightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passionflower — position
Checked 2026-08-13
- FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passionflower — hardiness
Checked 2026-08-13
- Hardiness ratingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings
Checked 2026-08-13
- Grows best atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passionflower — temperature
Checked 2026-08-13
- SoilSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passionflower — soil
Checked 2026-08-13
- Soil pHSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Plant Finder — Missouri Botanical Garden: Passiflora caerulea — culture
Checked 2026-08-13
- DrainageSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passionflower — soil
Checked 2026-08-13
- Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
On your soil
Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.
| Soil | Verdict | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Heavy clay | Works, with one condition | Passionflower will crop on heavy clay, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
| Sandy | Prefers this soil | Sandy suits Passionflower as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Sandy soil is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. |
| Chalky and alkaline | Grows well here | Passionflower grows perfectly well on chalky and alkaline without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose. |
| Loam | Prefers this soil | Loam suits Passionflower as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering. |
| Silty | Prefers this soil | Silty suits Passionflower as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering. |
| Peaty and acid | Works, with one condition | Passionflower will crop on peaty and acid, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
| Shallow over rock | Prefers this soil | Shallow over rock suits Passionflower as it stands: The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. |
| Made ground and urban soil | Works, with one condition | Passionflower will crop on made ground and urban soil, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.
Space and spacing
- Mature height
- 400–900 cm
- Mature spread
- 200–400 cm
- Rooting depth
- 50 cm
- Spacing
- 200–300 cm apart
Where these figures come from
- Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- SpacingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passionflower — spacing
Checked 2026-08-13
Habit and ultimate size
What the plant becomes, rather than what it is when you buy it. The gap between the two is where most planting mistakes live.
- Foliage
- Semi-evergreen — holds its leaves in a mild winter
- In a container
- Workable in a container, with conditions
Where these figures come from
- FoliageSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passiflora caerulea — foliage
Checked 2026-08-13
- In a containerHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- How it climbs
- Tendrils or leaf stalks — needs mesh or wire to grip
- Vigour
- Vigorous — needs a substantial support and annual attention
Where these figures come from
- How it climbsSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passiflora caerulea — support
Checked 2026-08-13
- VigourSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passiflora caerulea — vigour
Checked 2026-08-13
Support it needs. Wires, mesh or trellis for the coiling tendrils to grip. Train the main stems horizontally while they are young — flowering shoots break upwards along a horizontal stem, so a fan multiplies the display over a vertical one.
Where and how you can grow it
Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.
| Method | Suitability | What it needs |
|---|---|---|
| Open ground | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Traditional dug bed | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Greenhouse | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Raised bed | WorkablesourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Container | WorkablesourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Polytunnel | WorkablesourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 |
Growing it
- TrainingIt climbs by coiling tendrils, so wires, mesh or trellis all work and a bare wall does not. Spread the main stems horizontally while young: flowers come from shoots that break along a horizontal stem, so training it sideways multiplies the display.
- PruningWait until April before cutting winter damage out. Passiflora caerulea often looks dead after a hard winter and shoots strongly from the base or from apparently lifeless wood — cutting in February frequently removes stems that would have recovered.
Where this guidance comes from
- TrainingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passiflora — training
Checked 2026-08-13
- PruningSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passiflora caerulea — pruning
Checked 2026-08-13
Is it worth putting under cover?
Whether it will grow there is on the methods table above. This is whether the space is well spent, which is a different question and usually the one being asked.
| Structure | What protection is worth | What decides it |
|---|---|---|
| Greenhouse | Only possible under coversourceGrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.
Checked 2026-08-13 | Fruit ripening. The plant is hardy enough to survive outdoors in the south and the fruit almost never ripens there; under glass it does.Room for a permanent vine on wires; Hand pollination in a closed houseThe distinction people miss is that surviving and fruiting are different questions for this plant. Outdoors it answers yes and no. |
| Polytunnel | Extends the seasonsourceGrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.
Checked 2026-08-13 | Overnight temperature. Glass holds overnight heat that polythene loses, so a tunnel runs cooler at night than a greenhouse in the same garden. For a crop at the edge of its heat requirement that difference decides whether the fruit ripens. |
Safety and edibility
- Which parts are ediblechildrenThe ripe orange fruit of Passiflora caerulea is edible and bland. Unripe green fruit contains cyanogenic compounds and causes stomach upset, and the leaves are not edible at all — this is not the same species as the commercial passion fruit, Passiflora edulis.
source
Sourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Passiflora caerulea — fruit
Checked 2026-08-13
Eat only fully ripe orange fruit, and tell children the green ones are not food. There is little reason to eat them at all beyond curiosity.
Sources for this page
Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board · GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Plant Finder · Royal Horticultural Society
Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-14.