Shallot
Allium cepa var. aggregatum
An onion that multiplies: one bulb planted produces a clump of six to twelve. They store better than onions, are milder in cooking, and are planted early enough to be one of the first things in the ground each year.
- Position
- Full sun
- Water
- low demand
- Drainage
- Free-draining
- Grows to
- 30–45 cm × 15–20 cm
- Hardiness
- H5
- Harvest
- July and August
- Difficulty
- Straightforward
August
Harvest
Shallot’s year
Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.
| Activity | J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plant | January. | February. | March. | December. | ||||||||
| Harvest | July. | August. |
Timing that travels
The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.
Conditions it needs
- Light
- Full sun
- Frost
- Very hardy
- Hardiness rating
- H5 (RHS)
- Grows best at
- 13–24 °C
- Soil
- Loam, Sandy
- Soil pH
- 6–7.5
- Drainage
- Free-draining
- Water needs
- low
- Drought
- moderate tolerance
- Waterlogging
- poor tolerance
- Heat
- good tolerance
- Wind and exposure
- good tolerance
Where these figures come from
- LightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Shallot — position
Checked 2026-08-13
- FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Shallot — hardiness
Checked 2026-08-13
- Hardiness ratingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings
Checked 2026-08-13
- Grows best atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Shallot — temperature
Checked 2026-08-13
- SoilSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Shallot — soil
Checked 2026-08-13
- Soil pHSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Plant Finder — Missouri Botanical Garden: Allium cepa — culture
Checked 2026-08-13
- DrainageSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Shallot — soil
Checked 2026-08-13
- Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
Bulbs rot in wet ground, which is the main risk on clay.
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
On your soil
Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.
| Soil | Verdict | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Heavy clay | Works, with one condition | Shallot will crop on heavy clay, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
| Sandy | Prefers this soil | Sandy suits Shallot as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Sandy soil is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. |
| Chalky and alkaline | Grows well here | Shallot grows perfectly well on chalky and alkaline without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose. |
| Loam | Prefers this soil | Loam suits Shallot as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering. |
| Silty | Prefers this soil | Silty suits Shallot as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering. |
| Peaty and acid | Works, with one condition | Shallot will crop on peaty and acid, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
| Shallow over rock | Prefers this soil | Shallow over rock suits Shallot as it stands: The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. |
| Made ground and urban soil | Works, with one condition | Shallot will crop on made ground and urban soil, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.
Space and spacing
- Mature height
- 30–45 cm
- Mature spread
- 15–20 cm
- Rooting depth
- 20 cm
- Spacing
- 15–20 cm apart
Where these figures come from
- Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- SpacingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Shallot — spacing
Checked 2026-08-13
In a container
- Minimum volume
- 10 litres or more
- Minimum depth
- 20 cm
Where the container figures come from
- Minimum volumeHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Minimum depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
Where and how you can grow it
Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.
| Method | Suitability | What it needs |
|---|---|---|
| Open ground | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Traditional dug bed | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Raised bed | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Container | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | 10 litres; 20 cm deep |
| Hydroponics | MarginalsourceGrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence The onion's argument exactly: a long season occupying lit space to produce something worth pence, and a bulb that needs to be dried and cured rather than harvested fresh.
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Greenhouse | MarginalsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Polytunnel | MarginalsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 |
Growing it
- PlantingPush each set in so the tip is just visible, and firm the soil around it. Birds pull loose sets out, which is the commonest reason a row looks patchy a week after planting.
- HarvestingStop watering once the foliage begins to yellow. Shallots lifted from wet ground do not dry properly and rot in store rather than keeping until spring.
Where this guidance comes from
- PlantingSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Shallot — care
Checked 2026-08-13
- HarvestingSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Shallot — care
Checked 2026-08-13
Is it worth putting under cover?
Whether it will grow there is on the methods table above. This is whether the space is well spent, which is a different question and usually the one being asked.
| Structure | What protection is worth | What decides it |
|---|---|---|
| Greenhouse | No real benefitsourceGrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.
Checked 2026-08-13 | Occupies protected ground for months to produce something that grows perfectly well outdoors. The cost is not the crop, it is everything that could have been there instead. Shallots are planted in the shortest days and lifted in midsummer, holding the ground through the whole protected season. |
| Polytunnel | No real benefitsourceGrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.
Checked 2026-08-13 | Occupies protected ground for months to produce something that grows perfectly well outdoors. The cost is not the crop, it is everything that could have been there instead. |
Growing it without soil
Nearly anything can be grown in a soilless system by somebody with enough equipment. The useful question is whether it is worth it, in which technique, and what goes wrong.
It can be made to grow, but a soilless system is the wrong tool — usually because of rooting volume, running cost, or a result no better than a pot of compost.
source
GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence
The onion's argument exactly: a long season occupying lit space to produce something worth pence, and a bulb that needs to be dried and cured rather than harvested fresh.
- GrowingHQ editorial synthesis — GrowingHQ
Checked 2026-08-13
Curing needs warm dry air for weeks after lifting, and a system supplies neither.
Techniques that suit it
- Ebb and flowA bed of inert medium floods and drains on a timer. The medium holds moisture between floods, which makes it far more tolerant of interruption than NFT.
- Drip-fed mediumSolution is dripped into an inert medium around each plant. The most forgiving technique and the one that suits large, long-season, heavy crops.
source
Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Root space
- Moderate, for a very long time.
- pH band
- 5.5–6.5
Where these figures come from
- Root spaceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- pH bandSourced guidancehigh confidence
Outside roughly this band, individual nutrients become unavailable even when they are present in the solution — which is why a crop can starve in a full reservoir.
- Purdue Extension — Purdue University: Hydroponic solution management — pH
Checked 2026-08-13
No nutrient recipes here
GrowingHQ records pH bands, which are measurable properties of nutrient availability, and deliberately records no EC or PPM targets and no mixing instructions. Published targets vary by cultivar, growth stage, water source and technique, and the figures that apply to your system are on the product you bought.
Harvesting
- When it is readyReady when the foliage has yellowed and toppled and the clump has split into separate bulbs, usually in July or early August. Unlike onions, shallots are ready as a cluster rather than singly — lift the whole clump and separate it afterwards. Do not bend the tops over to hasten ripening; it damages the neck and shortens how long they keep.
- How to pick itLoosen the clump with a fork and lift it whole. Spread the bulbs in a single layer somewhere warm, dry and airy for two to three weeks until the skins rustle and the necks are papery — this drying is what decides whether they keep until spring or rot by Christmas.
- Keeping itDry the clumps thoroughly in an airy place for two or three weeks, then store somewhere cool and dry. Well-dried shallots keep until the following spring, which is longer than most onions.
Where the harvest guidance comes from
- When it is readySourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Shallots — harvesting
Checked 2026-08-13
- How to pick itSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Shallots — harvesting
Checked 2026-08-13
- Keeping itSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Shallot — storage
Checked 2026-08-13
What goes wrong
| Problem | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Bulb ripening | commonsourceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence No external citation — see the evidence type above. Checked 2026-08-13 | Ripening rather than a fault. The yellowing tops are the signal to stop watering and lift. |
| Allium white rot | occasionalsourceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence No external citation — see the evidence type above. Checked 2026-08-13 | Persists in soil for up to twenty years, so a bed that has had it should not grow alliums again. |
Sources for this page
Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board · GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Plant Finder · Royal Horticultural Society
Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-14.