GrowingHQ
Herbculinary herbSome care needed

Shiso

Perilla frutescens

Grown as a half-hardy annual and easier than basil in a British summer, which surprises people who assume anything Japanese must be difficult. The red form is as much an ornamental as a herb; the green form is the one used in cooking, and the two are sold interchangeably under the same name.

Position
Full sun or Partial shade
Water
moderate demand
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Grows to
45–90 cm × 30–45 cm
Hardiness
H2
Harvest
July to October
Difficulty
Some care needed

Described view

A crisped red shiso leaf quilted between its veins beside a flat green shiso leaf at the same scale

August

Harvest

Shiso’s year

Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.

ActivityJFMAMJJASOND
Sow under coverMarch. April.
Plant outJune.
HarvestJuly. August. September. October.

Timing that travels

The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.

What kind of herb this is

Herbs are a kitchen grouping rather than a botanical one, and the plants in it want opposite things. This is the one distinction that decides how to treat it.

Warm-season tender herb

Growing regime
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — growing

Checked 2026-08-13

Does nothing below about 10 °C and sulks in a cold wet spring. Warmth and shelter matter more than feeding, and outdoors in Britain is usually the wrong place until midsummer.

Treated the same way: basil, thai basil. The herb bed, split by regime

Indoors
Indoors spring to autumn
Where the indoor assessment comes from
IndoorsSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — growing indoors

Checked 2026-08-13

Almost any herb will sit on a windowsill in July. This is about whether it is still there in March, which is the part a pot on a supermarket shelf does not tell you.

What happens when it flowers

On a herb this is rarely a problem and rarely nothing. It is the point at which the plant stops being what you grew it for — by a lot, a little, or not at all.

Leaves coarsen
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

The seed is a crop too

Pinch the flower spikes out to keep the leaves coming, or leave one plant to flower — the seed heads are used in Japanese cooking in their own right, and shiso self-seeds readily enough to return the following year.

source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Perilla — growing

Checked 2026-08-13

Conditions it needs

Light
Full sun, Partial shade
Frost
Frost tender
Hardiness rating
H2 (RHS)
Grows best at
18–28 °C
Soil
Loam, Peat-free compost
Soil pH
5.5–7
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Water needs
moderate
Drought
poor tolerance
Waterlogging
poor tolerance
Heat
good tolerance
Wind and exposure
poor tolerance
Where these figures come from
LightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — position

Checked 2026-08-13

FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Hardiness ratingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings

Checked 2026-08-13

Grows best atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — temperature

Checked 2026-08-13

SoilSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Soil pHSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Plant FinderMissouri Botanical Garden: Perilla frutescens — culture

Checked 2026-08-13

DrainageSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On your soil

Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.

SoilVerdictWhy
Heavy clayWorks, with one conditionShiso will crop on heavy clay, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. For a crop lifted before winter the risk is not rot but the season: waterlogged ground is cold and unworkable in spring, so sowing is late and germination patchy.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
SandyWorks, with one conditionShiso will crop on sandy, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Chalky and alkalineStruggles hereShiso struggles on chalky and alkaline: The soil is substantially too alkaline for it: it wants pH 5.5 to 7, and this soil sits around 7.8 to 8.5. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering. A container or a raised bed of imported soil sidesteps the problem entirely.
LoamPrefers this soilLoam suits Shiso as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 7, and this soil is in that range. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SiltyGrows well hereShiso grows perfectly well on silty without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
Peaty and acidWorks, with one conditionShiso will crop on peaty and acid, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. For a crop lifted before winter the risk is not rot but the season: waterlogged ground is cold and unworkable in spring, so sowing is late and germination patchy.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
Shallow over rockWorks, with one conditionShiso will crop on shallow over rock, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Made ground and urban soilWorks, with one conditionShiso will crop on made ground and urban soil, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. For a crop lifted before winter the risk is not rot but the season: waterlogged ground is cold and unworkable in spring, so sowing is late and germination patchy.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.

Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.

Space and spacing

Mature height
45–90 cm
Mature spread
30–45 cm
Rooting depth
30 cm
Spacing
30–40 cm apart
Where these figures come from
Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SpacingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — spacing

Checked 2026-08-13

How far apart to plant shisoThree shiso plants drawn in a row at their recorded spacing of 30–40 cm between plants. The spacing is drawn to scale against a one metre rule; the plants themselves are symbols rather than scale drawings, so the distance between them is the part to read.30–40 cmone metre
Measured centre to centre. Plants set closer than this compete for light and water long before they look crowded, and the crowding cannot be undone once they are in.

In a container

Minimum volume
7 litres or more
Minimum depth
25 cm
Where the container figures come from
Minimum volumeHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Minimum depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Happy in a pot in a warm sheltered spot outdoors in summer or on a bright sill. Pinch the tips regularly; a container plant runs to flower sooner than one in the ground.

Where and how you can grow it

Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.

MethodSuitabilityWhat it needs
Raised bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

ContainerWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

7 litres
GreenhouseWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

PolytunnelWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Open groundWorkable
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Traditional dug bedWorkable
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Cold frameWorkable
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

WindowsillWorkable
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

HydroponicsWorkable
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

A soft-leaved tender annual that behaves much like basil, and the purple forms need genuinely bright light or they come up green.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Growing it

  • PropagationSurface-sow and keep the seed in the light. Shiso seed is slow and short-lived, and germination failures are almost always down to burying it or using an old packet rather than to temperature.
  • PruningPinch the growing tips out from early on to make a bushy plant. Left alone shiso runs up to a single tall stem and produces far fewer of the large leaves it is grown for.
  • WateringKeep the compost evenly moist through the growing season; shiso wilts dramatically when dry and the leaf quality never fully recovers. It is a tender annual grown for soft new growth, so a plant that has been allowed to dry and harden is better cut back than nursed.
  • FeedingA dilute balanced liquid feed every two weeks in a container keeps the leaves large and soft. Pinch the growing tips regularly: flowering stops leaf production, and feeding will not compensate for a plant that has been allowed to run up.
  • HarvestingPick individual leaves from the outside once the plant has half a dozen pairs, taking the larger ones and leaving the growing tip. The flavour is at its best on medium-sized leaves — very young ones are mild and old ones turn coarse. Late in the season the flower spikes are also picked and used, so a plant allowed to run up is not wasted.
  • ProtectionGrown here as a half-hardy annual: frost ends it and it is not carried through the winter. It will crop well into October in a greenhouse or against a warm wall, which is longer than basil manages. Let one plant set seed and it will often self-sow, and shiso seed needs the winter cold to germinate — so seed left where it fell frequently does better than seed saved and sown in spring.
Where this guidance comes from
PropagationSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — sowing

Checked 2026-08-13

PruningSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — growing

Checked 2026-08-13

WateringSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Perilla — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

FeedingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Perilla — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

HarvestingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

ProtectionSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

Where to make a pruning cutFour stems compared. The first is cut cleanly on a slope about five millimetres above an outward-facing bud, sloping away from it, and is labelled correct. The second is cut too far above the bud, leaving a long stub that dies back. The third is cut too close, into the bud itself, which loses the shoot. The fourth is cut sloping towards the bud so rain runs onto it rather than away, which rots it. In every case the bud points outwards, away from the centre of the plant.Correct5 mm, sloping awayToo highstub dies backToo closebud lostSloping inrain sits on the bud
The bud you cut to becomes the new shoot, and it grows in the direction it points — which is why an outward-facing bud opens the plant up and an inward-facing one crosses the middle.
Four ways to make more plantsFour propagation operations compared, each showing where the separation is made and what must be present on both sides of it. Division: a clump cut between crowns, with roots and at least one growing point on every piece. Stem cutting: a shoot cut just below a leaf node, because the node is where roots form, with the lower leaves removed. Runner: a plantlet already rooting where it touches the ground, severed from the parent only after its own roots have taken. Offset: a young shoot at the base of the parent, separated with its own roots attached. In each case the cut is marked and the part that must be retained is labelled.Divisioncut between crownsroots on every piececut below a nodeStem cuttingroots form at the nodestrip the lower leavesRunnerlet it root firstthen sever the linkOffseta shoot at the basetake its roots with it
The rule is the same in all four: the new piece needs both a growing point and roots of its own. A cutting is the exception that has to make its roots afterwards, which is why the node matters so much.

Is it worth putting under cover?

Whether it will grow there is on the methods table above. This is whether the space is well spent, which is a different question and usually the one being asked.

StructureWhat protection is worthWhat decides it
GreenhouseExtends the season
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Frost tenderness and season length. Shiso will grow outdoors in a warm summer and gives far more leaf under cover.
PolytunnelExtends the season
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Frost tenderness and season length.

On a windowsill

Spring to autumn
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

How long the crop is actually productive on an ordinary British windowsill without added light.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Productive from roughly March to October and not after. Growth stops when the light does, and a plant pushed through the dark months usually does not recover. Light and warmth. A good summer sill plant that colours poorly in low light — the purple forms go green before they go leggy, which is a useful early warning.

Growing it without soil

Nearly anything can be grown in a soilless system by somebody with enough equipment. The useful question is whether it is worth it, in which technique, and what goes wrong.

Works with conditions

Succeeds when the conditions listed here are met and fails when they are not. The conditions are the answer, not a caveat.

source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

A soft-leaved tender annual that behaves much like basil, and the purple forms need genuinely bright light or they come up green.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Techniques that suit it

  • Deep water cultureRoots hang in aerated solution. Very productive and very unforgiving of solution temperature — warm solution holds less oxygen and root disease follows.
  • Nutrient film (NFT)A shallow stream of solution runs over bare roots in a sloped channel. Cheap and productive for small fast crops; a pump failure kills a crop within hours because there is no reservoir at the roots.
  • Drip-fed mediumSolution is dripped into an inert medium around each plant. The most forgiving technique and the one that suits large, long-season, heavy crops.
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Root space
Small to moderate.
Lighting
Needs supplementary light
pH band
5.5–6.5
Where these figures come from
Root spaceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

LightingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

pH bandSourced guidancehigh confidence

Outside roughly this band, individual nutrients become unavailable even when they are present in the solution — which is why a crop can starve in a full reservoir.

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic solution management — pH

Checked 2026-08-13

What actually goes wrong

  • Warm solution. Above roughly 22 °C the water holds much less dissolved oxygen and root disease follows quickly, which is why summer is harder than winter in an indoor system.
    source

    Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

    • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Solution temperature and dissolved oxygen

    Checked 2026-08-13

No nutrient recipes here

GrowingHQ records pH bands, which are measurable properties of nutrient availability, and deliberately records no EC or PPM targets and no mixing instructions. Published targets vary by cultivar, growth stage, water source and technique, and the figures that apply to your system are on the product you bought.

Harvesting

  • When it is readyReady once the plant has six or so pairs of leaves. Medium-sized leaves have the best flavour — very young ones are mild, and old lower leaves turn coarse. Late in the season the flower spikes are picked and used as well, so a plant running up to flower is still cropping.
  • How to pick itPick individual leaves from the outside, leaving the growing tip. Use fresh; shiso does not dry.
Where the harvest guidance comes from
When it is readySourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Shiso — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

How to pick itHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

What goes wrong

ProblemHow oftenNotes
Normal end of an annual's lifecommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Yellows from the base once it flowers as the nights draw in.
Slugs and snailscommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Aphidsoccasional
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Foliage that is meant to look like thatcommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

The crisped and ruffled forms are grown for a quilted leaf that never flattens, and it is routinely read as virus.

Sources for this page

GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Plant Finder · Royal Horticultural Society

Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-15.