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Ornamentalshrub ornamentalSome care needed

Skimmia

Skimmia japonica

A neat dome-shaped evergreen sold everywhere in autumn for its red buds and berries, and very often sold in a way that guarantees no berries at all. Most skimmias are either male or female: the berries come only on a female plant, and only if a male is somewhere nearby.

Position
Partial shade or Dappled shade or Full shade
Water
moderate demand
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Grows to
80–150 cm × 80–150 cm
Hardiness
H5
Flowers
March and April
Difficulty
Some care needed

Described view

A male skimmia in bud beside a berried female plant, the flower structures shown close up

August

Nothing to do

No sowing, planting, harvesting or pruning window falls in August.

Coming next month: plant.

Skimmia’s year

Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.

ActivityJFMAMJJASOND
PlantMarch. April. September. October.
In flowerMarch. April.

Timing that travels

The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.

Conditions it needs

Light
Partial shade, Dappled shade, Full shade
Frost
Very hardy
Hardiness rating
H5 (RHS)
Grows best at
8–22 °C
Soil
Loam, Peat-free compost
Soil pH
5–6.5
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Water needs
moderate
Drought
poor tolerance
Waterlogging
poor tolerance
Heat
poor tolerance
Wind and exposure
moderate tolerance
Where these figures come from
LightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia — position

Checked 2026-08-13

FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Hardiness ratingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings

Checked 2026-08-13

Grows best atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia — temperature

Checked 2026-08-13

SoilSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Soil pHSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Plant FinderMissouri Botanical Garden: Skimmia japonica — culture

Checked 2026-08-13

DrainageSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

Foliage yellows badly in full sun.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On your soil

Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.

SoilVerdictWhy
Heavy clayWorks, with one conditionSkimmia will crop on heavy clay, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
SandyWorks, with one conditionSkimmia will crop on sandy, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Chalky and alkalineStruggles hereSkimmia struggles on chalky and alkaline: The soil is substantially too alkaline for it: it wants pH 5 to 6.5, and this soil sits around 7.8 to 8.5. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering. A container or a raised bed of imported soil sidesteps the problem entirely.
LoamGrows well hereSkimmia grows perfectly well on loam without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
SiltyGrows well hereSkimmia grows perfectly well on silty without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
Peaty and acidWorks, with one conditionSkimmia will crop on peaty and acid, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
Shallow over rockWorks, with one conditionSkimmia will crop on shallow over rock, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Made ground and urban soilStruggles hereSkimmia struggles on made ground and urban soil: The soil is substantially too alkaline for it: it wants pH 5 to 6.5, and this soil sits around 7.2 to 7.8. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold. A container or a raised bed of imported soil sidesteps the problem entirely.

Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.

Space and spacing

Mature height
80–150 cm
Mature spread
80–150 cm
Rooting depth
40 cm
Spacing
75–100 cm apart
Where these figures come from
Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SpacingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia — spacing

Checked 2026-08-13

How far apart to plant skimmiaThree skimmia plants drawn in a row at their recorded spacing of 75–100 cm between plants. The spacing is drawn to scale against a one metre rule; the plants themselves are symbols rather than scale drawings, so the distance between them is the part to read.75–100 cmone metre
Measured centre to centre. Plants set closer than this compete for light and water long before they look crowded, and the crowding cannot be undone once they are in.

Habit and ultimate size

What the plant becomes, rather than what it is when you buy it. The gap between the two is where most planting mistakes live.

Foliage
Evergreen
In a container
Good in a container long-term
Where these figures come from
FoliageSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia japonica — foliage

Checked 2026-08-13

In a containerHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Growth rate
Slow — under about 30 cm a year
Ultimate height
80–150 cm
Ultimate spread
80–150 cm
Time to reach it
10–15 yearsSourced guidance
Where these figures come from
Growth rateSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia japonica — growth rate

Checked 2026-08-13

Ultimate heightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia japonica — ultimate height

Checked 2026-08-13

Ultimate spreadSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia japonica — ultimate spread

Checked 2026-08-13

Time to reach itSourced guidancelow confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia japonica — time to ultimate size

Checked 2026-08-13

Cutting it back. Naturally forms a tight dome and needs no pruning. It does not respond well to being cut back hard, so a plant that has outgrown its space is better replaced than reduced.
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Where and how you can grow it

Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.

MethodSuitabilityWhat it needs
Open groundWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Traditional dug bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Raised bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

ContainerWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Growing it

  • PollinationBuy a named female form for berries and make sure a male is within a few metres — one male pollinates several females. 'Rubella', the one most widely sold for its red winter buds, is MALE and will never carry a berry, which accounts for most of the disappointment this plant causes. S. japonica subsp. reevesiana is the exception: it is self-fertile and needs no partner.
  • FeedingYellowing leaves with green veins mean lime-induced chlorosis rather than hunger. Skimmia wants acid to neutral soil, and on chalk the answer is a container of ericaceous compost rather than an attempt to treat the bed, which reverts within a season.
Where this guidance comes from
PollinationSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia japonica — pollination

Checked 2026-08-13

FeedingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Skimmia — chlorosis

Checked 2026-08-13

Sources for this page

GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Plant Finder · Royal Horticultural Society

Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-14.

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