GrowingHQ
FruitSome care needed

Cherry

Prunus avium

Two different trees under one name. Sweet cherries are for eating, need sun, and were impractical in gardens until dwarfing rootstocks arrived. Acid cherries are for cooking, are self-fertile, and will crop on a north-facing wall — the only fruit in this catalogue that genuinely will. Both are pruned in summer, and both need netting or the birds take everything.

Position
Full sun or Partial shade
Water
moderate demand
Drainage
Free-draining
Grows to
250–500 cm × 250–450 cm
Hardiness
H6
Harvest
June to August
Difficulty
Some care needed

Described view

A fan-trained cherry against a wall with fine netting stretched on a frame clear of the foliage, ripening fruit visible behind

August

Harvest · Prune

Cherry’s year

Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.

ActivityJFMAMJJASOND
PlantJanuary. February. March. November. December.
In flowerApril.
HarvestJune. July. August.
PruneMay. June. July. August.
DormantJanuary. December.

Names that cause confusion

acid cherryPrunus cerasus — a different species from the sweet cherry. Self-fertile, fruits on last year's wood rather than on spurs, and productive on a north wall where nothing else fruits.

Timing that travels

The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.

Pollination

Whether one plant on its own will set fruit, and what has to be true if it will not.

One plant on its own will crop.

Self-fertility
Self-fertileSourced guidanceDepends on conditions
Partner needed
No partner neededSourced guidanceDepends on conditions
Pollen moved by
Insects
What decides compatibility
incompatibility group
Where the pollination figures come from
Self-fertilitySourced guidanceDepends on conditionshigh confidence

Applies when: True of the cultivars now sold for gardens — 'Stella', 'Sunburst', 'Morello'. Many older sweet cherries are self-sterile and carry S-allele incompatibility groups, where two cultivars in the same group cannot pollinate each other however well they overlap in flowering.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherry pollination

Checked 2026-08-13

Partner neededSourced guidanceDepends on conditionshigh confidence

Applies when: For the self-fertile cultivars. An older self-sterile cultivar needs a partner from a different incompatibility group.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherry pollination

Checked 2026-08-13

Pollen moved byHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

What decides compatibilitySourced guidancehigh confidence

A genetic mechanism unrelated to flowering time, which is why cherry pollination charts look different from apple ones.

  • WSU ExtensionWashington State University: Sweet cherry pollination — S-alleles

Checked 2026-08-13

Which of these will pollinate which

Worked out from flowering groups and ploidy for the 7 cultivars GrowingHQ holds — a small fraction of those in cultivation. A cultivar that is not listed has not been ruled out; it has not been recorded. Read a row as “this cultivar’s pollen reaches…”.

Pollen fromLapinsMerton GloryMorelloNapoleonStellaSummer SunSunburst
Lapinsyesyesyesyesyesyes
Merton Gloryyesnot knownnot knownyesyesyes
Morelloyesnot knownnot knownnoyesyes
Napoleonyesnot knownnot knownyesyesyes
Stellayesyesnoyesyesyes
Summer Sunyesyesyesyesyesyes
Sunburstyesyesyesyesyesyes

Lapins crops on its own.

A late self-fertile sweet cherry with large firm fruit and better split resistance than Sunburst. Sold under the name Cherokee in some catalogues.

Merton Glory is pollinated by Lapins, Stella, Summer Sun, Sunburst.

An early white-fleshed cherry with very large fruit. Self-sterile, and its incompatibility group is not recorded here — pair it with a self-fertile cultivar, which sidesteps the unknown entirely.

Morello crops on its own.

An acid cherry for cooking, self-fertile, and — unusually for fruit — genuinely productive on a north-facing wall. It fruits on last year's growth rather than on spurs, which is why acid cherries are pruned by replacement and sweet cherries are not.

Napoleon is pollinated by Lapins, Stella, Summer Sun, Sunburst.

A large pale-yellow cherry flushed red, and the one traditional self-sterile cultivar recorded here — it is what makes the S-allele mechanism visible rather than theoretical. Known as Royal Ann in America.

Stella crops on its own.

The first widely grown self-fertile sweet cherry, and the reason a single cherry tree in a garden became a sensible idea at all. Vigorous, so the rootstock choice matters more here than the cultivar does.

Summer Sun crops on its own.

Bred for cooler and more exposed British conditions, and the usual recommendation for a northern garden where Stella is marginal.

Sunburst crops on its own.

A self-fertile sweet cherry with large dark fruit, generally grown where a single tree is wanted. Prone to splitting after rain close to picking, which is a weather problem rather than a fault.

Rootstocks — the decision that fixes the size

A grafted fruit tree is two plants. The top decides what the fruit tastes like; the rootstock decides how big the tree gets, how soon it crops and whether it needs staking for life.

Gisela 5 is what made cherries a garden fruit: a tree small enough to net. Colt produces a larger tree suited to a fan against a wall.

Heights are ranges and always will be — the same rootstock behaves differently on light sand and deep loam.
RootstockVigourMature heightStakingIn a container
Gisela 5Dwarfing250–350 cmPermanent stakingSourced guidanceDepends on conditionsnot assessedInsufficient evidence
ColtSemi-vigorous400–500 cmStake while establishingunsuitable
Where the rootstock figures come from
Gisela 5
VigourSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherry rootstocks

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature heightSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherry rootstocks

Checked 2026-08-13

StakingSourced guidanceDepends on conditionsmoderate confidence

Applies when: Reported as needing support in commercial systems carrying heavy crops. A lightly cropped garden tree in shelter may manage without, but staking is the safer default.

  • WSU ExtensionWashington State University: Sweet cherry rootstocks — orchard support

Checked 2026-08-13

In a containerInsufficient evidenceconfidence unknown

Not assessed by GrowingHQ for long-term container growing.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Colt
VigourSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherry rootstocks

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature heightSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherry rootstocks

Checked 2026-08-13

StakingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Planting fruit trees

Checked 2026-08-13

In a containerSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherry rootstocks

Checked 2026-08-13

Pruning and training

Every piece of fruit pruning advice follows from one fact: where the plant carries next year's crop.

Fruits on: Spurs on older wood

Fruit forms on short stubby spurs that persist on wood two years old and older. Pruning aims to build and renew those spurs, so the framework is kept and young growth is shortened.

Sourced guidanceDepends on conditionshigh confidence

Applies when: True for sweet cherries. ACID cherries fruit on wood made the previous year, so they are pruned by renewal — cutting out fruited wood to a replacement shoot — and treating one like the other loses the crop.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Pruning cherries

Checked 2026-08-13

Which wood carries the fruitThree fruiting habits compared. On a spur-bearer such as most apples and pears, fruit forms on short stubby spurs on wood two years old and older, so the older framework must be kept and long new shoots can be shortened. On a tip-bearer, fruit forms at the ends of shoots made last year, so shortening every shoot removes the entire crop. On a cane fruit such as a summer raspberry, fruit forms on canes grown the previous season, which die after cropping and are cut to the ground while this year's new canes are kept.Spur-bearerfruit on old spursshorten new growthTip-bearerfruit at the shoot tipsshortening loses the cropCane fruitcut fruited canes outkeep this year’s canes
Cutting the wrong wood does not damage the plant. It removes the crop, and the loss is not visible until the following summer.

Forms it can be grown as

  • Bush
  • Pyramid
  • Fan
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Trained fruit forms

Checked 2026-08-13

Fans need wires; a fan is also the form that can be netted.
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

  • Annual maintenanceMay, June, July

    Keep a sweet cherry open and to a size that can be netted, without opening wounds when silver leaf is about.

    Prune in late spring or early summer, lightly. Sweet cherries need little pruning once the framework is built.

    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Pruning cherries

    Checked 2026-08-13

    Timing matters: Winter pruning invites silver leaf, which cannot be treated.

  • Annual maintenanceJuly, August

    Renew the fruiting wood on an ACID cherry, which crops on shoots made the previous season and becomes bare at the base if never cut back.

    After fruiting, cut out a proportion of the wood that has just fruited, back to a young replacement shoot. This is a different operation from sweet-cherry pruning and produces a different-looking tree.

    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Pruning acid cherries

    Checked 2026-08-13

What you are committing to

Fruit is a multi-year decision. These are the numbers a nursery label rarely carries.

First worthwhile crop
3–5 years
Propagated by
Grafting or budding
Fruit type
Stone fruit
Where these figures come from
First worthwhile cropSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherry rootstocks

Checked 2026-08-13

Propagated bySourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Grafting fruit trees

Checked 2026-08-13

Keeping it: Does not keep. Eaten or cooked within days; freezes well once stoned.
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

A ripe cherry does not travel, and the difference between one picked from a garden tree and one bought is larger than for almost any other fruit.

Conditions it needs

Light
Full sun, Partial shadeSourced guidanceDepends on conditions
Direct sun
4 hours a day or more
Frost
Very hardySourced guidanceDepends on conditions
Hardiness rating
H6 (RHS)
Soil
Loam, Silt
Soil pH
6–7.5
Drainage
Free-draining
Water needs
moderate
Drought
poor tolerance
Waterlogging
poor tolerance
Heat
moderate tolerance
Wind and exposure
moderate tolerance
Where these figures come from
LightSourced guidanceDepends on conditionshigh confidence

Applies when: Sweet cherries need sun. Acid cherries such as 'Morello' fruit acceptably on a north-facing wall, which is unusual enough to be worth planning around.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing cherries

Checked 2026-08-13

Direct sunHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

FrostSourced guidanceDepends on conditionshigh confidence

Applies when: Hardy tree, frost-vulnerable blossom.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherries — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Hardiness ratingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings

Checked 2026-08-13

SoilHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Soil pHHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

DrainageSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing cherries

Checked 2026-08-13

Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

Even watering as the fruit ripens matters: a dry spell followed by rain splits the crop.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

DroughtSourced guidancehigh confidence

Trees on Gisela 5 in particular need consistent moisture.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherry rootstocks

Checked 2026-08-13

WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On your soil

Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.

SoilVerdictWhy
Heavy clayWorks, with one conditionCherry will crop on heavy clay, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
SandyWorks, with one conditionCherry will crop on sandy, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Chalky and alkalineStruggles hereCherry struggles on chalky and alkaline: It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering. It roots to about 50 cm and this soil offers roughly 40 cm before rock or hardpan. A container or a raised bed of imported soil sidesteps the problem entirely.
LoamPrefers this soilLoam suits Cherry as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering. There is ample rooting depth for it.
SiltyPrefers this soilSilty suits Cherry as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Silt is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering. There is ample rooting depth for it.
Peaty and acidWorks, with one conditionCherry will crop on peaty and acid, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
Shallow over rockStruggles hereCherry struggles on shallow over rock: It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering. It roots to about 50 cm and this soil offers roughly 25 cm before rock or hardpan. A container or a raised bed of imported soil sidesteps the problem entirely.
Made ground and urban soilStruggles hereCherry struggles on made ground and urban soil: It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold. It roots to about 50 cm and this soil offers roughly 30 cm before rock or hardpan. A container or a raised bed of imported soil sidesteps the problem entirely.

Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.

Space and spacing

Mature height
250–500 cmSourced guidanceDepends on conditions
Mature spread
250–450 cm
Rooting depth
50–80 cm
Spacing
300–500 cm apart
Where these figures come from
Mature heightSourced guidanceDepends on conditionshigh confidence

Applies when: 2.5–3.5 m on Gisela 5, 4–5 m on Colt.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherry rootstocks

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SpacingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing cherries

Checked 2026-08-13

How far apart to plant cherryThree cherry plants drawn in a row at their recorded spacing of 300–500 cm between plants. The spacing is drawn to scale against a one metre rule; the plants themselves are symbols rather than scale drawings, so the distance between them is the part to read.300–500 cmone metre
Measured centre to centre. Plants set closer than this compete for light and water long before they look crowded, and the crowding cannot be undone once they are in.

In a container

Sometimes sold as a patio subject on Gisela 5. GrowingHQ records no minimum size, because it has not found evidence for long-term container cropping of cherries that it can stand behind.

Where and how you can grow it

Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.

MethodSuitabilityWhat it needs
Vertical growingWell suited
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

A fan is both nettable and, for acid cherries, the way to use a north wall.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Training fruit trees

Checked 2026-08-13

Wires; Summer pruning only; Netting
Open groundWorkable
Sourced guidanceDepends on conditionshigh confidence

Applies when: Well suited on a dwarfing rootstock that can be netted; a poor use of space on a vigorous one, because the birds take the crop.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing cherries

Checked 2026-08-13

A dwarfing rootstock; Netting as the fruit colours
Traditional dug bedWorkable
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HydroponicsMarginal
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

Root volume and chilling. The same three objections as the other top fruit, in the same order.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

GreenhouseMarginal
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Agriculture and Horticulture Development BoardAHDB: Cherries under glass

Checked 2026-08-13

PolytunnelMarginal
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Agriculture and Horticulture Development BoardAHDB: Cherries under glass

Checked 2026-08-13

ContainerNot assessed
Insufficient evidenceconfidence unknown

Not assessed by GrowingHQ.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

WindowsillNot suitable
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Growing it

  • ProtectionNet the tree as the fruit begins to colour. An unnetted cherry in a British garden is a bird crop — this is the practical reason to choose a rootstock producing a tree small enough to cover.
  • PruningPrune between late spring and midsummer only, and remember that acid and sweet cherries are pruned differently: sweet on a spur system, acid by renewing last year's fruited wood.
  • WateringWater evenly in the fortnight before picking. Heavy rain after a dry spell splits ripening cherries, and mulching to even out soil moisture is the practical defence.
  • FeedingA spring mulch of compost suits an established tree. Where growth is poor, use a general fertiliser in late winter rather than a high-nitrogen one — soft sappy growth is what bacterial canker colonises, and cherries are more prone to it than any other stone fruit. Container trees need a slow-release feed each spring because the compost is exhausted by midsummer.
Where this guidance comes from
ProtectionSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Protecting fruit from birds

Checked 2026-08-13

PruningSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Pruning cherries

Checked 2026-08-13

WateringHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Fruit splitting

Checked 2026-08-13

FeedingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cherries — feeding

Checked 2026-08-13

Where to make a pruning cutFour stems compared. The first is cut cleanly on a slope about five millimetres above an outward-facing bud, sloping away from it, and is labelled correct. The second is cut too far above the bud, leaving a long stub that dies back. The third is cut too close, into the bud itself, which loses the shoot. The fourth is cut sloping towards the bud so rain runs onto it rather than away, which rots it. In every case the bud points outwards, away from the centre of the plant.Correct5 mm, sloping awayToo highstub dies backToo closebud lostSloping inrain sits on the bud
The bud you cut to becomes the new shoot, and it grows in the direction it points — which is why an outward-facing bud opens the plant up and an inward-facing one crosses the middle.

Is it worth putting under cover?

Whether it will grow there is on the methods table above. This is whether the space is well spent, which is a different question and usually the one being asked.

StructureWhat protection is worthWhat decides it
GreenhouseImproves reliability
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Ultimate size, and the winter chill the tree needs and a warm house denies it.A fan-trained tree on a dwarfing rootstock against a back wall; The house left open all winter so the chilling requirement is metThe Victorian practice this descends from was real and the benefit is real — rain exclusion stops the fruit splitting and the structure keeps the birds off. It is a serious commitment of the best wall in the garden.
PolytunnelImproves reliability
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Ultimate size. A tunnel has no back wall to train against, which removes the one arrangement that makes this work.

Growing it without soil

Nearly anything can be grown in a soilless system by somebody with enough equipment. The useful question is whether it is worth it, in which technique, and what goes wrong.

Not worth it

It can be made to grow, but a soilless system is the wrong tool — usually because of rooting volume, running cost, or a result no better than a pot of compost.

source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

Root volume and chilling. The same three objections as the other top fruit, in the same order.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Birds are the usual reason people want cherries under control. Netting solves it far more cheaply.

Techniques that suit it

  • Drip-fed mediumSolution is dripped into an inert medium around each plant. The most forgiving technique and the one that suits large, long-season, heavy crops.
Horticultural consensusDepends on conditionsmoderate confidence

Applies when: Substrate only.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Root space
Very large, permanently.
pH band
5.5–6.5
Where these figures come from
Root spaceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

pH bandSourced guidancehigh confidence

Outside roughly this band, individual nutrients become unavailable even when they are present in the solution — which is why a crop can starve in a full reservoir.

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic solution management — pH

Checked 2026-08-13

No nutrient recipes here

GrowingHQ records pH bands, which are measurable properties of nutrient availability, and deliberately records no EC or PPM targets and no mixing instructions. Published targets vary by cultivar, growth stage, water source and technique, and the figures that apply to your system are on the product you bought.

Harvesting

  • When it is readyPick when fully coloured and sweet — cherries do not ripen further once picked. Taste one rather than judging by colour, which arrives early.
  • How to pick itCut or pick with the stalk on, which keeps the fruit sound for longer.
  • Keeping itA few days refrigerated.
Where the harvest guidance comes from
When it is readyHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing cherries

Checked 2026-08-13

How to pick itHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Keeping itHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

What goes wrong

ProblemHow oftenNotes
Normal autumn leaf fallcommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Seasonal, and the reason an autumn yellowing should not be read as a deficiency.
Bird damagecommon
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Birds and fruit

Checked 2026-08-13

The defining problem of garden cherries, and the reason tree size is a practical decision.
Fruit splittingcommon
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • WSU ExtensionWashington State University: Sweet cherry rain cracking

Checked 2026-08-13

Silver leafoccasional
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Bacterial cankeroccasional
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Brown rotoccasional
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Aphidscommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Cherry blackfly curls the growing tips in spring.
Poor fruit setoccasional
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Frost during the April blossom, or an older self-sterile cultivar without a compatible partner.

Start from what you can see

Grown with, grown after, grown instead

Every relationship states its mechanism. A pairing nobody can explain is a pairing nobody has checked, and it does not go in.

  • Shares a problem withPlum
    Both are Prunus susceptible to silver leaf through pruning wounds, which is why both are pruned only between late spring and midsummer.
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Silver leaf

    Checked 2026-08-13

  • Closely relatedApricot
    Both Prunus stone fruit sharing silver leaf susceptibility, self-fertility in garden cultivars, and a preference for fan training against a warm wall.
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Plants of the World OnlineRoyal Botanic Gardens, Kew: Prunus

    Checked 2026-08-13

Safety and edibility

  • Which parts are ediblechildrenCherry stones contain amygdalin and release cyanide if crushed and swallowed. The flesh is safe; the kernel is not a food. Cherry leaves and twigs are also toxic to livestock, particularly when wilted.
    source

    Horticultural consensushigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Potentially harmful garden plants

    Checked 2026-08-13

    Spit the stones out. Do not feed cherry prunings or wilted foliage to grazing animals.

  • Equipment safetychildrenNetting left slack traps birds, hedgehogs and other wildlife, and wild birds are legally protected in the UK. A cherry tree is the crop most likely to be netted and the one most often netted badly.
    source

    Horticultural consensushigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Protecting fruit from birds

    Checked 2026-08-13

    Keep netting taut on a frame, use a mesh too small for a bird's head, and check it daily while it is up.

Sources for this page

Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board · GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Royal Horticultural Society

Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-13.

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