GrowingHQ
VegetablecucurbitSome care needed

Cucumber

Cucumis sativus

A crop where choosing the right type matters more than anything you do afterwards. Greenhouse cucumbers are productive and demanding, wanting warmth, humidity and constant moisture; ridge cucumbers are tougher, crop outdoors, and forgive a British summer. Sowing the wrong one for your setup is the usual reason cucumbers disappoint.

Position
Full sun
Water
high demand
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Grows to
180–200 cm × 45–90 cm
Hardiness
H1C
Harvest
July to September
Difficulty
Some care needed

Described view

A greenhouse cucumber trained up a string, showing tendrils, a large open leaf and a long straight fruit hanging from a leaf joint

August

Harvest

Cucumber’s year

Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.

ActivityJFMAMJJASOND
Sow under coverMarch.
Sow outdoorsMay.
Plant outMay.
HarvestJuly. August. September.

Names that cause confusion

cucumberTwo quite different growing types share the name. Greenhouse (all-female) cultivars need warmth and produce long smooth fruit; ridge cultivars are hardier, outdoor-grown and produce shorter rougher fruit.

Timing that travels

The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.

  • Sow under cover4–6 weeks before your last spring frost
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — sowing

    Checked 2026-08-13

  • Sow outdoors2–4 weeks after your last spring frost
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Ridge cucumbers

    Checked 2026-08-13

    Ridge cultivars only, into warm soil.

  • Plant out1–4 weeks after your last spring frost
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — planting

    Checked 2026-08-13

Conditions it needs

Light
Full sun
Direct sun
6 hours a day or more
Frost
Frost tender
Hardiness rating
H1c (RHS)
Grows best at
18–30 °C
Germinates at
20–30 °C
Soil
Loam, Peat-free compost
Soil pH
6–7
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Water needs
high
Drought
poor tolerance
Waterlogging
poor tolerance
Heat
good tolerance
Wind and exposure
poor tolerance
Humidity
Greenhouse cultivars do best in humid air and dislike the dry conditions that suit tomatoes — which is why the two are an awkward pairing in one small greenhouse.
Where these figures come from
LightSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Grow your own: cucumbers

Checked 2026-08-13

Direct sunHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Hardiness ratingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings

Checked 2026-08-13

Grows best atSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Home and Garden Information CenterClemson Cooperative Extension: Cucumber — culture

Checked 2026-08-13

Germinates atSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • OSU Extension ServiceOregon State University: Vegetable seed germination temperatures

Checked 2026-08-13

SoilHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Soil pHSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • University of Minnesota ExtensionUniversity of Minnesota: Soil pH for vegetable crops

Checked 2026-08-13

DrainageHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Water needsSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — watering

Checked 2026-08-13

DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — watering

Checked 2026-08-13

WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HumidityHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers under glass

Checked 2026-08-13

On your soil

Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.

SoilVerdictWhy
Heavy clayWorks, with one conditionCucumber will crop on heavy clay, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. For a crop lifted before winter the risk is not rot but the season: waterlogged ground is cold and unworkable in spring, so sowing is late and germination patchy.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
SandyWorks, with one conditionCucumber will crop on sandy, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Chalky and alkalineStruggles hereCucumber struggles on chalky and alkaline: The soil is substantially too alkaline for it: it wants pH 6 to 7, and this soil sits around 7.8 to 8.5. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering. A container or a raised bed of imported soil sidesteps the problem entirely.
LoamPrefers this soilLoam suits Cucumber as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7, and this soil is in that range. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SiltyGrows well hereCucumber grows perfectly well on silty without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
Peaty and acidWorks, with one conditionCucumber will crop on peaty and acid, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. For a crop lifted before winter the risk is not rot but the season: waterlogged ground is cold and unworkable in spring, so sowing is late and germination patchy.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
Shallow over rockWorks, with one conditionCucumber will crop on shallow over rock, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Made ground and urban soilWorks, with one conditionCucumber will crop on made ground and urban soil, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. For a crop lifted before winter the risk is not rot but the season: waterlogged ground is cold and unworkable in spring, so sowing is late and germination patchy.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.

Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.

Space and spacing

Mature height
180–200 cm
Mature spread
45–90 cm
Rooting depth
40 cm
Spacing
45–60 cm apart
Row spacing
90 cm
Where these figures come from
Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

Cordon-trained greenhouse cultivars. Outdoor ridge types trail along the ground unless supported.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SpacingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — spacing

Checked 2026-08-13

Row spacingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

How far apart to plant cucumberThree cucumber plants drawn in a row at their recorded spacing of 45–60 cm between plants, with a second row 90 cm away. The spacing is drawn to scale against a one metre rule; the plants themselves are symbols rather than scale drawings, so the distance between them is the part to read.45–60 cm90 cm between rowsone metre
Measured centre to centre. Plants set closer than this compete for light and water long before they look crowded, and the crowding cannot be undone once they are in.

In a container

Minimum volume
20–30 litres
Minimum depth
30 cm
Where the container figures come from
Minimum volumeSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers in containers

Checked 2026-08-13

Minimum depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Greenhouse types do well in large pots or growing bags with a cane or string to climb. They are heavy feeders and will yellow from the bottom up when the compost is exhausted.

Where and how you can grow it

Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.

MethodSuitabilityWhat it needs
GreenhouseWell suited
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers under glass

Checked 2026-08-13

An all-female greenhouse cultivar; Vertical support; Humid air and steady moistureGreenhouse cucumbers want it warmer and more humid than tomatoes; sharing one small greenhouse between the two is always a compromise.
PolytunnelWell suited
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Vertical support
HydroponicsWell suited
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Greenhouse cucumber production

Checked 2026-08-13

Open groundWorkable
Sourced guidanceDepends on conditionshigh confidence

Applies when: Ridge cultivars only. Greenhouse cultivars grown outdoors crop poorly and are prone to bitterness.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Ridge cucumbers

Checked 2026-08-13

A ridge or outdoor cultivar; A sheltered sunny site
Raised bedWorkable
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

A ridge cultivar; Support or room to trail
ContainerWorkable
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers in containers

Checked 2026-08-13

20 litres or more; Support; Water at least daily in hot weather
Vertical growingWorkable
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

A natural climber, so growing it upward suits it; the constraint is rooting volume rather than the habit.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Netting or strings to climb
AquaponicsWorkable
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Aquaponic fruiting crops

Checked 2026-08-13

WindowsillMarginal
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing herbs and salads indoors

Checked 2026-08-13

Growing it

  • TrainingTrain greenhouse cultivars up a string or cane, pinching out the growing tip when it reaches the roof and pinching side shoots two leaves beyond a developing fruit.
  • WateringKeep the compost consistently moist. Cucumbers wilt readily and irregular watering causes both bitterness and misshapen fruit.
  • PollinationAll-female greenhouse cultivars must NOT be pollinated: fertilised fruit turns bitter and swollen. Remove any male flowers that appear. Ridge cucumbers are the opposite and need insects to set.
  • FeedingFeed weekly with a balanced or high-potassium liquid feed once fruiting starts. Greenhouse cucumbers in containers exhaust their compost by midsummer and show it clearly — the oldest leaves yellow from the bottom of the plant upwards while the growing tip still looks well, which is a hunger sign rather than a disease.
  • ProtectionNot overwintered — both greenhouse and outdoor cucumbers are grown as annuals and are finished by the first cold nights, often before any actual frost. Outdoor plants suffer below about 10 °C and stop setting fruit. Clear the plants once they stop cropping rather than leaving them, and wash down a greenhouse afterwards: red spider mite overwinters in the structure and reinfests next year's crop from there.
Where this guidance comes from
TrainingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — training

Checked 2026-08-13

WateringSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — watering

Checked 2026-08-13

PollinationSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — pollination

Checked 2026-08-13

FeedingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — feeding

Checked 2026-08-13

ProtectionSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

Where to make a pruning cutFour stems compared. The first is cut cleanly on a slope about five millimetres above an outward-facing bud, sloping away from it, and is labelled correct. The second is cut too far above the bud, leaving a long stub that dies back. The third is cut too close, into the bud itself, which loses the shoot. The fourth is cut sloping towards the bud so rain runs onto it rather than away, which rots it. In every case the bud points outwards, away from the centre of the plant.Correct5 mm, sloping awayToo highstub dies backToo closebud lostSloping inrain sits on the bud
The bud you cut to becomes the new shoot, and it grows in the direction it points — which is why an outward-facing bud opens the plant up and an inward-facing one crosses the middle.

Is it worth putting under cover?

Whether it will grow there is on the methods table above. This is whether the space is well spent, which is a different question and usually the one being asked.

StructureWhat protection is worthWhat decides it
GreenhouseOnly possible under cover
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Heat and humidity. The greenhouse cultivars are all-female and thin-skinned and are not outdoor plants at all; the ridge types that do grow outdoors are a different crop.Support to the roof; Shade in high summerWorth knowing which you have bought before planting. An all-female greenhouse cucumber outdoors is a disappointment with a long explanation behind it.
PolytunnelImproves reliability
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Humidity, which a tunnel supplies more readily than glass — cucumbers like it and their neighbours often do not. A tunnel is normally cropped in the ground, so soil-borne disease builds up under a rotation that never leaves cover. A greenhouse can sidestep it with pots or fresh growbags; a tunnel bed cannot.

On a windowsill

Does not work indoors
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

How long the crop is actually productive on an ordinary British windowsill without added light.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Not a windowsill crop. The reason is given — usually light, root volume or sheer size. Size and humidity. Even a compact cucumber wants a metre of support and humid air, and it will get red spider mite in a dry heated room within weeks.

Growing it without soil

Nearly anything can be grown in a soilless system by somebody with enough equipment. The useful question is whether it is worth it, in which technique, and what goes wrong.

Well suited

An established soilless crop. Grown this way commercially or routinely by home growers, with predictable results.

source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Greenhouse cucumber production

Checked 2026-08-13

A standard protected soilless crop, with the same light and support demands as tomatoes.

Techniques that suit it

  • Drip-fed mediumSolution is dripped into an inert medium around each plant. The most forgiving technique and the one that suits large, long-season, heavy crops.
  • Ebb and flowA bed of inert medium floods and drains on a timer. The medium holds moisture between floods, which makes it far more tolerant of interruption than NFT.
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Root space
Large, as for tomatoes — a long-season crop with a heavy water demand.
Support
Vertical strings or netting to two metres, tied in as the plant climbs.
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — training

Checked 2026-08-13

Lighting
Fully lit by lampsHorticultural consensusDepends on conditions
pH band
5.5–6.5
Where these figures come from
Root spaceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

LightingHorticultural consensusDepends on conditionsmoderate confidence

Applies when: Daylight under glass; lamps in a closed system, where the light demand is high.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

pH bandSourced guidancehigh confidence

Outside roughly this band, individual nutrients become unavailable even when they are present in the solution — which is why a crop can starve in a full reservoir.

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic solution management — pH

Checked 2026-08-13

What actually goes wrong

  • Accidental pollination of an all-female greenhouse cultivar, which makes the fruit bitter and swollen. Under cover the male flowers must be removed.
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — pollination

    Checked 2026-08-13

  • Warm solution. Above roughly 22 °C the water holds much less dissolved oxygen and root disease follows quickly, which is why summer is harder than winter in an indoor system.
    source

    Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

    • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Solution temperature and dissolved oxygen

    Checked 2026-08-13

  • Pump or power failure. In nutrient film and aeroponics there is no reserve at the roots, so a crop can be lost within hours; medium-based systems hold moisture and are far more forgiving.
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic system design — failure modes

    Checked 2026-08-13

No nutrient recipes here

GrowingHQ records pH bands, which are measurable properties of nutrient availability, and deliberately records no EC or PPM targets and no mixing instructions. Published targets vary by cultivar, growth stage, water source and technique, and the figures that apply to your system are on the product you bought.

Harvesting

Time from sowing or planting: 9–12 weeks
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — timing

Checked 2026-08-13

  • When it is readyCut while the sides are still parallel and the skin is glossy. Fruit left to swell at the ends is past its best and slows the plant.
  • How to pick itCut the stalk with a knife or secateurs.
Where the harvest guidance comes from
When it is readyHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucumbers — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

How to pick itHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Keep picking

Regular picking keeps this plant producing. Fruit or leaves left to mature signal it to slow down or stop.

What goes wrong

ProblemHow oftenNotes
Powdery mildewcommon
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Powdery mildews

Checked 2026-08-13

Slugs and snailscommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On young outdoor plants.
Aphidsoccasional
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Start from what you can see

Grown with, grown after, grown instead

Every relationship states its mechanism. A pairing nobody can explain is a pairing nobody has checked, and it does not go in.

  • Closely relatedCourgette
    Both cucurbits sharing water demands, powdery mildew susceptibility and a dependence on correct handling of male and female flowers, so their calendars and problems run together.
    source

    Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Cucurbits

    Checked 2026-08-13

Safety and edibility

  • PreparationBitterness in cucumbers comes from cucurbitacins, produced under stress or when an all-female cultivar is accidentally pollinated. Strongly bitter fruit can cause stomach upset.
    source

    Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Bitter cucumbers

    Checked 2026-08-13

    Discard any fruit that tastes markedly bitter rather than trying to peel the bitterness away.

Sources for this page

GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Home and Garden Information Center · OSU Extension Service · Purdue Extension · Royal Horticultural Society · University of Minnesota Extension

Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-13.

If something is wrong with it

Something else? Work through it with the diagnostic tool.