Curry leaf
Murraya koenigii
A tropical tree grown here as a conservatory or windowsill plant, and the culinary herb of South Indian cooking. It is not curry plant, which is an unrelated silver-leaved ornamental that smells of curry and is not used in food — the two are sold under confusingly similar names and only one goes in a pan.
- Position
- Full sun
- Water
- moderate demand
- Drainage
- Free-draining
- Grows to
- 150–250 cm × 80–120 cm
- Hardiness
- H1B
- Harvest
- May to September
- Difficulty
- Demanding
Described view
A curry leaf tree's glossy green pinnate foliage beside the silver needle-like leaves of curry plant, Helichrysum italicum
August
Harvest
Curry leaf’s year
Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.
| Activity | J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Harvest | May. | June. | July. | August. | September. | |||||||
| Prune | April. | May. |
Names that cause confusion
curry plant — Curry plant is Helichrysum italicum, a silver-leaved Mediterranean ornamental that smells strongly of curry and is not a culinary herb. If that is what you are looking for, this is the wrong plant.
Timing that travels
The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.
What kind of herb this is
Herbs are a kitchen grouping rather than a botanical one, and the plants in it want opposite things. This is the one distinction that decides how to treat it.
Tropical, frost-tender herb
Growing regimesource
Sourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Curry leaf — growing
Checked 2026-08-13
Frost kills it outright. It has to come inside for winter or be treated as an annual, and the indoor months are survival rather than growth.
Treated the same way: lemon verbena, lemongrass, vietnamese coriander. The herb bed, split by regime
- Indoors
- Grows indoors all year
Where the indoor assessment comes from
- IndoorsSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Curry leaf — growing indoors
Checked 2026-08-13
Almost any herb will sit on a windowsill in July. This is about whether it is still there in March, which is the part a pot on a supermarket shelf does not tell you.
What happens when it flowers
On a herb this is rarely a problem and rarely nothing. It is the point at which the plant stops being what you grew it for — by a lot, a little, or not at all.
source
Sourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Curry leaf — harvesting
Checked 2026-08-13
Nothing to do about it. Flowering does not change what curry leaf is worth picking, so there is no reason to prevent it.
Conditions it needs
- Light
- Full sun
- Frost
- Frost tender
- Hardiness rating
- H1b (RHS)
- Grows best at
- 20–32 °C
- Soil
- Loam, Peat-free compost
- Soil pH
- 5.5–7
- Drainage
- Free-draining
- Water needs
- moderate
- Drought
- moderate tolerance
- Waterlogging
- poor tolerance
- Heat
- good tolerance
- Wind and exposure
- poor tolerance
Where these figures come from
- LightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Curry leaf — position
Checked 2026-08-13
- FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Curry leaf — hardiness
Checked 2026-08-13
- Hardiness ratingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings
Checked 2026-08-13
- Grows best atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Curry leaf — temperature
Checked 2026-08-13
- SoilSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Curry leaf — soil
Checked 2026-08-13
- Soil pHSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Plant Finder — Missouri Botanical Garden: Murraya koenigii — culture
Checked 2026-08-13
- DrainageSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Curry leaf — soil
Checked 2026-08-13
- Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
On your soil
Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.
| Soil | Verdict | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Heavy clay | Works, with one condition | Curry leaf will crop on heavy clay, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
| Sandy | Grows well here | Curry leaf grows perfectly well on sandy without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose. |
| Chalky and alkaline | Works, with one condition | Curry leaf will crop on chalky and alkaline, but one thing has to be dealt with first. The soil is substantially too alkaline for it: it wants pH 5.5 to 7, and this soil sits around 7.8 to 8.5.The pH is the obstacle. Small shifts are achievable and slow; large ones are not. On chalky and alkaline the dependable answer is a container of the right compost rather than an attempt to change the ground. |
| Loam | Prefers this soil | Loam suits Curry leaf as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 7, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering. |
| Silty | Prefers this soil | Silty suits Curry leaf as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 7, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering. |
| Peaty and acid | Works, with one condition | Curry leaf will crop on peaty and acid, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
| Shallow over rock | Prefers this soil | Shallow over rock suits Curry leaf as it stands: The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. |
| Made ground and urban soil | Works, with one condition | Curry leaf will crop on made ground and urban soil, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse. |
Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.
Space and spacing
- Mature height
- 150–250 cm
- Mature spread
- 80–120 cm
- Rooting depth
- 45 cm
- Spacing
- 100–150 cm apart
Where these figures come from
- Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- SpacingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Curry leaf — spacing
Checked 2026-08-13
In a container
- Minimum volume
- 20 litres or more
- Minimum depth
- 35 cm
Where the container figures come from
- Minimum volumeHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Minimum depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
A conservatory or windowsill plant in Britain and always potted. It wants a free-draining compost, real warmth and good light, and it resents being moved between very different conditions — a plant shuttled in and out drops its leaves each time.
Where and how you can grow it
Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.
| Method | Suitability | What it needs |
|---|---|---|
| Container | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | 20 litres; A minimum of 10 °C all winter |
| Indoor pot | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Windowsill | Well suitedsourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Greenhouse | WorkablesourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | Only a heated one. |
| Polytunnel | WorkablesourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Hydroponics | MarginalsourceGrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence A tropical tree. It will sit in a substrate system for years making very little, and the leaves are wanted in quantity.
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Open ground | Not suitablesourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Traditional dug bed | Not suitablesourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Raised bed | Not suitablesourceSourced guidancemoderate confidence
Checked 2026-08-13 |
Growing it
- ProtectionKeep it above 10 °C all year and reduce watering sharply in winter, when it stops growing. Leaf drop after a cold spell is normal and it usually reshoots in spring, so a bare plant in February is not necessarily a dead one.
- PruningPinch the growing tip out on a young plant to make it branch, and pot on every second spring. An unpruned curry leaf makes a single thin stem with leaves only at the top, which is a lot of plant for very little to pick.
- WateringWater freely in summer while it is growing, letting the top of the compost dry slightly between waterings, and cut right back in winter when the plant is barely growing — a cool wet pot in December is the usual cause of death. Curry leaf drops its leaves when it is unhappy, and both drought and waterlogging produce the same symptom, so check the compost before deciding which.
- FeedingFeed with a balanced liquid feed every two or three weeks from April to August; a potted tree being picked for its leaves needs it. Curry leaf is prone to yellowing between the veins on poor or alkaline compost, which usually indicates iron or magnesium shortage rather than general starvation — an ericaceous or sequestered-iron feed corrects it.
- HarvestingStrip whole pinnate leaves from the stem rather than picking individual leaflets, taking mature leaves from the lower part of a shoot and leaving the growing tip. The flavour is in the fresh leaf and is largely lost on drying, so pick as needed; surplus freezes far better than it dries.
- PropagationEasiest from the suckers that appear around the base of an established plant: sever one with roots attached in spring and pot it up. Seed works but must be sown very fresh — curry-leaf seed loses viability within a few weeks — and cuttings are slow and unreliable by comparison.
Where this guidance comes from
- ProtectionSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Plants of the World Online — Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew: Murraya koenigii
Checked 2026-08-13
- PruningSourced guidancemoderate confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Murraya koenigii — care
Checked 2026-08-13
- WateringSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Murraya — cultivation
Checked 2026-08-13
- FeedingSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Murraya — cultivation
Checked 2026-08-13
- HarvestingSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Murraya — uses
Checked 2026-08-13
- PropagationSourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Murraya — propagation
Checked 2026-08-13
Is it worth putting under cover?
Whether it will grow there is on the methods table above. This is whether the space is well spent, which is a different question and usually the one being asked.
| Structure | What protection is worth | What decides it |
|---|---|---|
| Greenhouse | Only possible under coversourceGrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.
Checked 2026-08-13 | Frost, and a long warm season. A tropical tree that will not survive a British winter outdoors at all. |
| Polytunnel | Extends the seasonsourceGrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.
Checked 2026-08-13 | Overnight temperature. Glass holds overnight heat that polythene loses, so a tunnel runs cooler at night than a greenhouse in the same garden. For a crop at the edge of its heat requirement that difference decides whether the fruit ripens. |
On a windowsill
source
GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence
How long the crop is actually productive on an ordinary British windowsill without added light.
- GrowingHQ editorial synthesis — GrowingHQ
Checked 2026-08-13
Growing it without soil
Nearly anything can be grown in a soilless system by somebody with enough equipment. The useful question is whether it is worth it, in which technique, and what goes wrong.
It can be made to grow, but a soilless system is the wrong tool — usually because of rooting volume, running cost, or a result no better than a pot of compost.
source
GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence
A tropical tree. It will sit in a substrate system for years making very little, and the leaves are wanted in quantity.
- GrowingHQ editorial synthesis — GrowingHQ
Checked 2026-08-13
Sold widely as a houseplant, and the disappointment is always the same: it makes about a dozen leaves a year indoors.
Techniques that suit it
- Drip-fed mediumSolution is dripped into an inert medium around each plant. The most forgiving technique and the one that suits large, long-season, heavy crops.
Horticultural consensusDepends on conditionsmoderate confidence
Applies when: Substrate only, and slow.
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- Root space
- Large and permanent.
- pH band
- 5.5–6.5
Where these figures come from
- Root spaceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
- pH bandSourced guidancehigh confidence
Outside roughly this band, individual nutrients become unavailable even when they are present in the solution — which is why a crop can starve in a full reservoir.
- Purdue Extension — Purdue University: Hydroponic solution management — pH
Checked 2026-08-13
No nutrient recipes here
GrowingHQ records pH bands, which are measurable properties of nutrient availability, and deliberately records no EC or PPM targets and no mixing instructions. Published targets vary by cultivar, growth stage, water source and technique, and the figures that apply to your system are on the product you bought.
Harvesting
- When it is readyPick once a shoot has hardened slightly and the leaflets have darkened to full green; very young red-tinged growth has little flavour. There is no seasonal window on an indoor plant beyond taking less in winter, when growth is slow and the plant cannot replace what is removed.
- How to pick itStrip whole pinnate leaves from the stem rather than picking individual leaflets. Use fresh — the flavour largely goes on drying, but the leaves freeze well.
Where the harvest guidance comes from
- When it is readySourced guidancehigh confidence
- Royal Horticultural Society: Murraya — uses
Checked 2026-08-13
- How to pick itHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
No external citation — see the evidence type above.
Checked 2026-08-13
What goes wrong
| Problem | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Red spider mite | commonsourceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence No external citation — see the evidence type above. Checked 2026-08-13 | |
| Root rot | occasionalsourceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence No external citation — see the evidence type above. Checked 2026-08-13 |
Safety and edibility
- Which parts are edibleCurry leaf (Murraya koenigii) and curry plant (Helichrysum italicum) are unrelated plants sold under nearly the same name. Only Murraya koenigii is the culinary herb; curry plant is a silver-leaved Mediterranean ornamental that smells strongly of curry and is not a food plant.
source
Sourced guidancehigh confidence
- Plants of the World Online — Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew: Murraya koenigii
Checked 2026-08-13
Buy on the botanical name rather than the label. A plant with silver needle-like foliage is curry plant and is not what a recipe means by curry leaves.
Sources for this page
Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board · GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Plant Finder · Plants of the World Online · Royal Horticultural Society
Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-15.