GrowingHQ
Herbculinary herbSome care needed

Vietnamese coriander

Persicaria odorata

Unrelated to coriander and to mint despite both names, and the one herb here that solves a real problem: it tastes close enough to coriander to replace it and does not bolt, because it is a spreading tender perennial rather than an annual that runs to seed. The catch is that a frost kills it outright.

Position
Partial shade or Full sun
Water
high demand
Drainage
Moisture-retentive, Tolerates wet ground
Grows to
25–40 cm × 40–60 cm
Hardiness
H1C
Harvest
May to October
Difficulty
Some care needed

August

Harvest · Take cuttings

Vietnamese coriander’s year

Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.

ActivityJFMAMJJASOND
HarvestMay. June. July. August. September. October.
Take cuttingsApril. May. June. July. August.
ProtectOctober. November.

Timing that travels

The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.

What kind of herb this is

Herbs are a kitchen grouping rather than a botanical one, and the plants in it want opposite things. This is the one distinction that decides how to treat it.

Tropical, frost-tender herb

Growing regime
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Vietnamese coriander — growing

Checked 2026-08-13

Frost kills it outright. It has to come inside for winter or be treated as an annual, and the indoor months are survival rather than growth.

Treated the same way: curry leaf, lemon verbena, lemongrass. The herb bed, split by regime

Indoors
Grows indoors all year
Where the indoor assessment comes from
IndoorsSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Vietnamese coriander — growing indoors

Checked 2026-08-13

Almost any herb will sit on a windowsill in July. This is about whether it is still there in March, which is the part a pot on a supermarket shelf does not tell you.

What happens when it flowers

On a herb this is rarely a problem and rarely nothing. It is the point at which the plant stops being what you grew it for — by a lot, a little, or not at all.

No real effect on the leaves
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Vietnamese coriander — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

Nothing to do about it. Flowering does not change what vietnamese coriander is worth picking, so there is no reason to prevent it.

Conditions it needs

Light
Partial shade, Full sun
Frost
Frost tender
Hardiness rating
H1c (RHS)
Grows best at
18–30 °C
Soil
Loam, Peat-free compost, Silt
Soil pH
5.5–7
Drainage
Moisture-retentive, Tolerates wet ground
Water needs
high
Drought
poor tolerance
Waterlogging
good tolerance
Heat
good tolerance
Wind and exposure
poor tolerance
Where these figures come from
LightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Vietnamese coriander — position

Checked 2026-08-13

FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Vietnamese coriander — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Hardiness ratingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings

Checked 2026-08-13

Grows best atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Vietnamese coriander — temperature

Checked 2026-08-13

SoilSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Vietnamese coriander — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Soil pHSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Plant FinderMissouri Botanical Garden: Persicaria odorata — culture

Checked 2026-08-13

DrainageSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Vietnamese coriander — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

It is a marsh plant and wilts within hours of drying out.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

One of the few herbs that will genuinely stand wet feet.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On your soil

Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.

SoilVerdictWhy
Heavy clayPrefers this soilHeavy clay suits Vietnamese coriander as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 7, and this soil is in that range. It tolerates ground that stays wet, which most crops do not. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SandyWorks, with one conditionVietnamese coriander will crop on sandy, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Chalky and alkalineStruggles hereVietnamese coriander struggles on chalky and alkaline: The soil is substantially too alkaline for it: it wants pH 5.5 to 7, and this soil sits around 7.8 to 8.5. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering. A container or a raised bed of imported soil sidesteps the problem entirely.
LoamPrefers this soilLoam suits Vietnamese coriander as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 7, and this soil is in that range. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SiltyPrefers this soilSilty suits Vietnamese coriander as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 7, and this soil is in that range. Silt is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
Peaty and acidPrefers this soilPeaty and acid suits Vietnamese coriander as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 5.5 to 7, and this soil is in that range. It tolerates ground that stays wet, which most crops do not. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
Shallow over rockWorks, with one conditionVietnamese coriander will crop on shallow over rock, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Made ground and urban soilGrows well hereVietnamese coriander grows perfectly well on made ground and urban soil without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.

Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.

Space and spacing

Mature height
25–40 cm
Mature spread
40–60 cm
Rooting depth
20 cm
Spacing
30–40 cm apart
Where these figures come from
Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SpacingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Vietnamese coriander — spacing

Checked 2026-08-13

How far apart to plant vietnamese corianderThree vietnamese coriander plants drawn in a row at their recorded spacing of 30–40 cm between plants. The spacing is drawn to scale against a one metre rule; the plants themselves are symbols rather than scale drawings, so the distance between them is the part to read.30–40 cmone metre
Measured centre to centre. Plants set closer than this compete for light and water long before they look crowded, and the crowding cannot be undone once they are in.

In a container

Minimum volume
5 litres or more
Minimum depth
20 cm
Where the container figures come from
Minimum volumeHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Minimum depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Ideal in a pot standing in a saucer of water — it is a marginal plant and will not object. The pot also lets it come indoors for the winter, which is how it survives outside a heated greenhouse, and it will crop on a warm bright sill all year.

Where and how you can grow it

Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.

MethodSuitabilityWhat it needs
ContainerWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

5 litres; Compost kept constantly moist
GreenhouseWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

PolytunnelWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

WindowsillWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Indoor potWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

HydroponicsWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic culinary herbs

Checked 2026-08-13

Traditional dug bedWorkable
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Raised bedWorkable
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Open groundNot suitable
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Only as a summer plant that will be lost in autumn.

Growing it

  • PropagationTake cuttings in late summer and root them in water on a windowsill. This is the reliable way to keep it going, and far more dependable than trying to carry a large plant through a British winter.
  • ProtectionNever let it dry out. This is a marsh plant and a pot that goes dry once will drop most of its leaves, which is the commonest complaint about growing it indoors and is entirely preventable.
  • WateringKeep it wet. This is a marginal plant that grows in mud in its native range, and it is one of the very few herbs that will not object to standing in water — a pot in a saucer kept topped up through summer suits it exactly. A plant that dries out goes crisp at the leaf edges quickly and is slow to recover, and drying out is the commonest reason one fails indoors over winter.
  • FeedingA balanced liquid feed every two or three weeks through the summer keeps the leaves large and dark; it is grown for leaf and cut often. Ease off from September as growth slows. Pale, small leaves on an indoor winter plant are usually a light problem rather than a feeding one.
  • HarvestingCut shoot tips with several leaves attached, taking from all round the plant. It is the one coriander substitute that does not bolt, so there is no window to catch — pick continuously from May to October outdoors, and year-round from a plant kept warm indoors. The flavour is strongest in fresh young leaves and is lost in cooking, so add it at the end.
Where this guidance comes from
PropagationSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Persicaria — propagation

Checked 2026-08-13

ProtectionSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Persicaria odorata — care

Checked 2026-08-13

WateringSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Persicaria odorata — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

FeedingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Persicaria odorata — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

HarvestingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Persicaria odorata — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

Four ways to make more plantsFour propagation operations compared, each showing where the separation is made and what must be present on both sides of it. Division: a clump cut between crowns, with roots and at least one growing point on every piece. Stem cutting: a shoot cut just below a leaf node, because the node is where roots form, with the lower leaves removed. Runner: a plantlet already rooting where it touches the ground, severed from the parent only after its own roots have taken. Offset: a young shoot at the base of the parent, separated with its own roots attached. In each case the cut is marked and the part that must be retained is labelled.Divisioncut between crownsroots on every piececut below a nodeStem cuttingroots form at the nodestrip the lower leavesRunnerlet it root firstthen sever the linkOffseta shoot at the basetake its roots with it
The rule is the same in all four: the new piece needs both a growing point and roots of its own. A cutting is the exception that has to make its roots afterwards, which is why the node matters so much.

Is it worth putting under cover?

Whether it will grow there is on the methods table above. This is whether the space is well spent, which is a different question and usually the one being asked.

StructureWhat protection is worthWhat decides it
GreenhouseOnly possible under cover
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Frost. A tender perennial that dies outdoors in the first hard frost and keeps going indefinitely under cover.
PolytunnelExtends the season
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Overnight temperature. Glass holds overnight heat that polythene loses, so a tunnel runs cooler at night than a greenhouse in the same garden. For a crop at the edge of its heat requirement that difference decides whether the fruit ripens.

On a windowsill

Productive all year
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

How long the crop is actually productive on an ordinary British windowsill without added light.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Keeps producing through a British winter on an ordinary windowsill without added light. Very few edible crops manage this. Humidity rather than light. Genuinely productive all year in a warm room if kept damp, which almost nothing else edible on this list manages.One of only two year-round verdicts in the file, and the reason is that it is a tender tropical perennial rather than a temperate plant being pushed.

Growing it without soil

Nearly anything can be grown in a soilless system by somebody with enough equipment. The useful question is whether it is worth it, in which technique, and what goes wrong.

Well suited

An established soilless crop. Grown this way commercially or routinely by home growers, with predictable results.

source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic culinary herbs

Checked 2026-08-13

Among the best soilless herbs there is, and almost never sold as one: it is a marsh plant, so a permanently wet root run is its native condition rather than a compromise.

Techniques that suit it

  • Deep water cultureRoots hang in aerated solution. Very productive and very unforgiving of solution temperature — warm solution holds less oxygen and root disease follows.
  • Nutrient film (NFT)A shallow stream of solution runs over bare roots in a sloped channel. Cheap and productive for small fast crops; a pump failure kills a crop within hours because there is no reservoir at the roots.
  • Ebb and flowA bed of inert medium floods and drains on a timer. The medium holds moisture between floods, which makes it far more tolerant of interruption than NFT.
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Root space
Small. It roots from every node and is propagated by dropping a cutting in water.
Lighting
Needs supplementary light
pH band
5.5–6.5
Where these figures come from
Root spaceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

LightingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

pH bandSourced guidancehigh confidence

Outside roughly this band, individual nutrients become unavailable even when they are present in the solution — which is why a crop can starve in a full reservoir.

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic solution management — pH

Checked 2026-08-13

What actually goes wrong

  • Warm solution. Above roughly 22 °C the water holds much less dissolved oxygen and root disease follows quickly, which is why summer is harder than winter in an indoor system.
    source

    Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

    • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Solution temperature and dissolved oxygen

    Checked 2026-08-13

No nutrient recipes here

GrowingHQ records pH bands, which are measurable properties of nutrient availability, and deliberately records no EC or PPM targets and no mixing instructions. Published targets vary by cultivar, growth stage, water source and technique, and the figures that apply to your system are on the product you bought.

Harvesting

  • When it is readyReady whenever the plant has shoots long enough to cut, which outdoors means May to October and indoors means all year. It does not bolt, so there is no window to miss. Young leaves at the shoot tips carry the strongest flavour; older lower leaves are milder and tougher.
  • How to pick itCut shoot tips with several leaves attached, taking from all round the plant — picking it this way is also what keeps it bushy, since a plant left unpicked sprawls into long bare trailing stems. Use fresh and add at the end of cooking, as heat destroys the flavour.
Where the harvest guidance comes from
When it is readySourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Persicaria odorata — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

How to pick itHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

What goes wrong

ProblemHow oftenNotes
Red spider miteoccasional
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Sources for this page

GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Plant Finder · Purdue Extension · Royal Horticultural Society

Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-15.