GrowingHQ
OrnamentalgroundcoverStraightforward

Heuchera

Heuchera villosa

Grown almost entirely for evergreen foliage in colours no other hardy perennial offers — lime, amber, purple, near-black — in a neat clump that never spreads. It is excellent in a pot and its one structural weakness is a habit of lifting itself out of the ground as it ages.

Position
Partial shade or Dappled shade or Full sun
Water
moderate demand
Drainage
Free-draining, Moisture-retentive
Grows to
25–50 cm × 30–50 cm
Hardiness
H6
Flowers
June and July
Difficulty
Straightforward

August

Nothing to do

No sowing, planting, harvesting or pruning window falls in August.

Coming next month: plant, divide.

Heuchera’s year

Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.

ActivityJFMAMJJASOND
PlantMarch. April. September.
In flowerJune. July.
DivideMarch. April. September.

Timing that travels

The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.

Conditions it needs

Light
Partial shade, Dappled shade, Full sun
Frost
Very hardy
Hardiness rating
H6 (RHS)
Grows best at
8–24 °C
Soil
Loam, Peat-free compost, Chalky
Soil pH
6–7.5
Drainage
Free-draining, Moisture-retentive
Water needs
moderate
Drought
moderate tolerance
Waterlogging
poor tolerance
Heat
moderate tolerance
Wind and exposure
moderate tolerance
Where these figures come from
LightSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — position

Checked 2026-08-13

FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Hardiness ratingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings

Checked 2026-08-13

Grows best atSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — temperature

Checked 2026-08-13

SoilSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Soil pHSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Plant FinderMissouri Botanical Garden: Heuchera villosa — culture

Checked 2026-08-13

DrainageSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — soil

Checked 2026-08-13

Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On your soil

Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.

SoilVerdictWhy
Heavy clayWorks, with one conditionHeuchera will crop on heavy clay, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
SandyGrows well hereHeuchera grows perfectly well on sandy without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
Chalky and alkalineGrows well hereHeuchera grows perfectly well on chalky and alkaline without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
LoamPrefers this soilLoam suits Heuchera as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SiltyPrefers this soilSilty suits Heuchera as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7.5, and this soil is in that range. The free drainage is exactly what it wants. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
Peaty and acidWorks, with one conditionHeuchera will crop on peaty and acid, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.
Shallow over rockPrefers this soilShallow over rock suits Heuchera as it stands: The free drainage is exactly what it wants. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting.
Made ground and urban soilWorks, with one conditionHeuchera will crop on made ground and urban soil, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It needs ground that drains, and this soil holds water. A plant that stays in the ground through winter with its roots in cold, saturated soil rots — which is what kills most of what fails on heavy ground, rather than the cold.Improve the drainage before planting — a raised bed, or bulky organic matter worked in over several seasons. Do not add sand to clay in small quantities; it makes the problem worse.

Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.

Space and spacing

Mature height
25–50 cm
Mature spread
30–50 cm
Rooting depth
25 cm
Spacing
30–40 cm apart
Where these figures come from
Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SpacingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — spacing

Checked 2026-08-13

How far apart to plant heucheraThree heuchera plants drawn in a row at their recorded spacing of 30–40 cm between plants. The spacing is drawn to scale against a one metre rule; the plants themselves are symbols rather than scale drawings, so the distance between them is the part to read.30–40 cmone metre
Measured centre to centre. Plants set closer than this compete for light and water long before they look crowded, and the crowding cannot be undone once they are in.

In a container

Minimum volume
5 litres or more
Minimum depth
25 cm
Where the container figures come from
Minimum volumeHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

Minimum depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

One of the best foliage plants for a pot, and better in one than in a border in many gardens — the colour is at eye level, the vine weevil grubs that are their main enemy are easier to spot when repotting, and a container in light shade prevents the leaf scorch they get in full sun. Refresh the compost every second spring and replant the crown deeper, because it lifts itself out of the pot as it ages.

Habit and ultimate size

What the plant becomes, rather than what it is when you buy it. The gap between the two is where most planting mistakes live.

Foliage
Evergreen
In a container
Good in a container long-term
Where these figures come from
FoliageSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera villosa — foliage

Checked 2026-08-13

In a containerHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Where and how you can grow it

Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.

MethodSuitabilityWhat it needs
Open groundWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Traditional dug bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Raised bedWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

ContainerWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing method suitability

Checked 2026-08-13

Growing it

  • PlantingEvery two or three years, lift the plant, cut off the bare woody stem that has pushed the crown up out of the soil, and replant the rosette deeper. Heuchera lifts itself as it ages and a plant left to it becomes unstable, dries out and dies — this is normal and completely fixable.
  • ProtectionCheck for vine weevil, especially in pots. A heuchera that wobbles when touched and pulls out of the compost with no roots has been eaten by the grubs, and the plant is the pest's favourite in a container. Tipping a pot out in autumn to look is worth doing routinely.
  • PropagationHeucheras lift themselves out of the ground as they age, leaving a bare woody stem with a rosette on top — and that is the moment to divide them. In spring, lift the plant, cut the crown into rosettes each with some root, and replant them deeper than they were so the bare stem is buried. This is renewal as much as propagation and is worth doing every three years.
  • WateringWater through the first season and in dry spells after that — heucheras are shallow-rooted and dry out sooner than their neighbours, and they scorch at the leaf edges in a hot dry position, which is why the darker and brighter cultivars generally look better in part shade than in full sun. The characteristic problem is not thirst but lifting: the woody crown pushes itself up out of the ground over a few years until the roots are half exposed and the plant dries out and rocks. When that happens, lift it in autumn or spring, split it and replant the pieces deeper.
  • FeedingA spring mulch of garden compost and, on poor soil or in a container, a balanced liquid feed monthly through the growing season. Do not overdo it — heucheras fed hard make large soft leaves that lose the intensity of colour they are grown for and are more prone to rot at the crown in a wet winter. In pots, refreshing the compost every second spring does more good than feeding more.
Where this guidance comes from
PlantingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — replanting

Checked 2026-08-13

ProtectionSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Vine weevil

Checked 2026-08-13

PropagationSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — propagation

Checked 2026-08-13

WateringSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

FeedingSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Heuchera — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

Four ways to make more plantsFour propagation operations compared, each showing where the separation is made and what must be present on both sides of it. Division: a clump cut between crowns, with roots and at least one growing point on every piece. Stem cutting: a shoot cut just below a leaf node, because the node is where roots form, with the lower leaves removed. Runner: a plantlet already rooting where it touches the ground, severed from the parent only after its own roots have taken. Offset: a young shoot at the base of the parent, separated with its own roots attached. In each case the cut is marked and the part that must be retained is labelled.Divisioncut between crownsroots on every piececut below a nodeStem cuttingroots form at the nodestrip the lower leavesRunnerlet it root firstthen sever the linkOffseta shoot at the basetake its roots with it
The rule is the same in all four: the new piece needs both a growing point and roots of its own. A cutting is the exception that has to make its roots afterwards, which is why the node matters so much.

What goes wrong

ProblemHow oftenNotes
Heuchera rustcommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Orange pustules beneath pale upper-surface spots. Often arrives on a bought plant.

Sources for this page

GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · Plant Finder · Royal Horticultural Society

Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-14.