Houseplants
35 houseplants, led by light — because most of what goes wrong indoors is a light problem that arrives disguised as a watering one.
The two sentences that prevent most houseplant deaths
The first is that indoor light is far dimmer than it looks. Your eyes adjust across a range a plant cannot; a spot that reads as “bright” two metres inside a room may be a tenth of the light at the window. The second is that watering is a condition, not a schedule. Every plant here records what to check for rather than how many days to wait, because the right interval changes by a factor of five with pot size, season, light and the room — and a fortnightly routine that suits a plant in July drowns the same plant in December.
Or start from what you need it to survive
Indoors in August
The brightest months, and the ones in which a plant will genuinely dry out in a few days. Feed while it is growing, watch anything on a south windowsill for scorch, and remember that a plant using this much water in July will use a fraction of it by November — the summer interval is the one that drowns plants in winter.
Start with the light you actually have
Four bands, described by where you would be standing rather than by what a label calls them. Find your position first, then read the list under it.
Bright with direct sun — 6
On or beside a south- or west-facing windowsill, where the sun falls on the leaves for part of the day.
Bright, out of direct sun — 19
Within a metre or so of a bright window but out of the sun's direct path — an east window, or a south window with a sheer curtain. The commonest requirement and the one most often misread as 'anywhere in a bright room'.
Moderate light — 9
A few metres back from a bright window, or close to a north-facing one. Enough to read by comfortably all day.
Low light — 1
Well back from any window, or a north-facing room. Genuinely dim — most plants sold as 'low light' tolerate it rather than want it.
The ones that genuinely do not mind a dim room
A great many plants are sold as low-light when they merely survive it, and the decline is slow enough to be blamed on something else.
16 of the 35 carry a positive assessment for tolerating genuinely low light — a north-facing room, or well back from any window. GrowingHQ records tolerance separately from preference, so a plant appears here because somebody assessed it as coping rather than because a label said “shade”. Everything here will still grow faster and look better nearer a window.
Cats, dogs and what is actually known
The area where the internet is least reliable, and where the wording matters more than the list.
Listed as non-toxic is not the same as safe
11 of these 35 houseplants are named on a published non-toxic list by an animal poison-control centre, for both cats and dogs. 20 are listed as harmful if eaten. The remaining 4 have not been assessed by any such authority — which is not a finding that they are dangerous, and is not a finding that they are safe. GrowingHQ will not move a plant into the first group because nobody has published a warning about it, so an unassessed plant stays out of every list on this site titled around safety.
Listed as non-toxic to cats and dogs — 11
Listed as harmful if eaten — 20
- Aglaonema
- Alocasia
- Aloe vera
- Anthurium
- Bird of paradise
- Dieffenbachia
- Dragon tree
- Heartleaf philodendron
- Hippeastrum
- Jade plant
- Lemongrass
- Monstera
- Peace lily
- Pothos
- Rubber plant
- Snake plant
- String of pearls
- Swiss cheese vine
- Syngonium
- ZZ plant
Severity varies enormously across this group, from a plant that causes a sore mouth to one that causes kidney failure in cats. Each profile states the mechanism and what to do, rather than the single word “toxic”.
Not assessed by an animal-toxicology authority — 4
The ones that want more humidity than a room has
Central heating takes indoor air well below what these plants evolved in, and brown crisp leaf tips are usually the first sign.
17 plants here are recorded as wanting raised or high humidity. Grouping them together, standing them on a tray of damp gravel, or keeping them in a bathroom or kitchen all work; misting is the remedy most often recommended and the least effective, because the effect lasts minutes.
Every houseplant, with what it wants
Light need, direct-sun tolerance and the condition to water at — the three facts that decide whether a plant lives, in one table.
| Plant | Light | Direct sun | Water when |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aglaonema | Moderate light | Scorches | When the top third of the compost is dry. It is more often lost to being kept wet in a cold room than to drying out. |
| Alocasia | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the top 2 cm is dry in active growth, and much less often once it slows in autumn. A dormant corm kept as wet as a growing plant rots. |
| Aloe vera | Bright with direct sun | Needs it | When the compost is completely dry throughout and the leaves have lost a little of their firmness. In winter, in a cool room, that may be once every six weeks. Water thoroughly when you do, then let it dry out completely again. |
| Anthurium | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the top 2–3 cm of the mix is dry. The thick roots want air as much as water, and a saucer left full is the usual cause of collapse. |
| Bird of paradise | Bright with direct sun | Needs it | When the top 3–5 cm of compost is dry in summer, and considerably drier than that in winter. It is heavy and thirsty in growth and rots easily when cold and wet. |
| Boston fern | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | Whenever the surface of the compost begins to feel dry — it wants to stay consistently moist and suffers quickly if it dries out completely. It is one of the few houseplants where erring towards wet is the safer mistake. |
| Calathea | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the top 1–2 cm of compost is dry — it wants to stay evenly moist and never wet or dry. Use rainwater, distilled water or tap water left to stand; calathea is sensitive to fluoride and chlorine and browns at the edges from both. |
| Chinese money plant | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the top half of the compost is dry, or when the leaves begin to droop slightly. It recovers quickly from a short dry spell and poorly from sitting wet. |
| Christmas cactus | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the top 2 cm is dry during growth and flowering. It is an epiphyte rather than a desert plant and should not be left bone dry for weeks. |
| Dieffenbachia | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the top 2–3 cm of compost is dry. It has thin leaves and few reserves, so it wilts sooner than a thick-leaved aroid. |
| Dragon tree | Moderate light | Scorches | When the top half of the compost is dry. Use rainwater or tap water left to stand overnight where possible — dracaena is genuinely sensitive to fluoride, and the brown leaf tips it is famous for are usually chemical rather than environmental. |
| Echeveria | Bright with direct sun | Needs it | When the compost is completely dry and the lowest leaves have begun to soften. Water into the compost and never into the rosette, where trapped water rots the crown. |
| Fatsia | Moderate light | Scorches | Water when the top 3–4 cm of compost is dry. It wilts visibly and dramatically before it is in real trouble, and recovers within hours, so the plant tells you clearly. |
| Fittonia | Moderate light | Scorches | As soon as the surface of the compost feels dry. This is one of the few houseplants that genuinely should not be allowed to dry out between waterings. |
| Haworthia | Bright, out of direct sun | Tolerates it | When the compost is dry throughout and the leaves have lost a little firmness. Roughly monthly in winter. |
| Heartleaf philodendron | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the top 2–3 cm of compost is dry. It is more tolerant of drying out than of sitting wet. |
| Hippeastrum | Bright, out of direct sun | Tolerates it | Sparingly until the flower stem is well up, then normally while it is in leaf. The bulb rots far more readily than it dries out, and over-watering a newly potted one before it has roots is the usual way it is lost. |
| Hoya | Bright, out of direct sun | Tolerates it | When the compost has dried most of the way through. As an epiphyte it is adapted to wetting and drying rather than to constant moisture. |
| Jade plant | Bright with direct sun | Needs it | When the compost is dry throughout and the leaves feel slightly less firm. Almost nothing in winter — a jade plant in a cool room may want water once between November and February. |
| Kentia palm | Moderate light | Scorches | When the top 3–5 cm of compost is dry. Reduce noticeably in winter. Browning frond tips usually mean dry air or hard water rather than underwatering. |
| Lemongrass | Bright with direct sun | Needs it | In summer, whenever the top of the compost begins to dry — it is thirsty in growth. From October to March, only when the compost is dry several centimetres down; a cold wet pot in winter is what kills most overwintered plants. |
| Monstera | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the top 3–5 cm of compost is dry to a finger pushed in. Water thoroughly until it runs from the base, then empty the saucer completely — leaving it standing in water is what causes root rot. |
| Moth orchid | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the roots visible through the clear pot turn from green to silvery-grey. That colour change is the single most reliable watering signal of any houseplant — water thoroughly at the sink, let it drain completely, and never leave the pot standing in water. |
| Parlour palm | Moderate light | Scorches | When the top 2–3 cm of compost is dry. Palms are far less tolerant of standing in water than of drying out slightly, and a saucer left full is the usual cause of browning fronds. |
| Peace lily | Moderate light | Scorches | When the top 2 cm of compost is dry — ideally before the leaves droop rather than after. The dramatic wilt is a reliable signal but is genuine stress, and a plant allowed to collapse repeatedly develops brown leaf tips and declines. |
| Peperomia | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | Look at the leaf before you water. Thick fleshy leaves mean a water store: let the compost dry most of the way through. Thin soft leaves mean no store: water when the top 2 cm is dry. Both rot if kept saturated. |
| Pothos | Moderate light | Scorches | When the top half of the compost is dry, or when the leaves begin to look slightly limp. Pothos wilts visibly before it suffers and recovers within hours of watering, which makes it unusually easy to read. |
| Rubber plant | Bright, out of direct sun | Tolerates it | When the top 3–4 cm of compost is dry. Reduce noticeably in winter — the plant is barely growing and a cold wet root ball rots. |
| Snake plant | Moderate light | Tolerates it | Only when the compost is completely dry all the way through — check by pushing a finger to the bottom of the pot or lifting it to feel the weight. In a cool room in winter that may be a month or more apart; in a warm bright room in summer, a fortnight. |
| Spider plant | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the top 2–3 cm of compost is dry. Keep it evenly moist in summer and noticeably drier in winter. |
| String of hearts | Bright, out of direct sun | Tolerates it | When the compost is dry throughout and the leaves feel slightly soft rather than firm. Much less in winter. Sparse widely-spaced leaves usually mean too little light rather than too little water. |
| String of pearls | Bright with direct sun | Tolerates it | Only when the compost is dry all the way through and the beads have lost their firmness. In winter that may be once a month or less. |
| Swiss cheese vine | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the top 2–3 cm of compost is dry. It dries out faster than its larger relative because the pot is smaller and the leaf area proportionally greater. |
| Syngonium | Bright, out of direct sun | Scorches | When the top 2–3 cm of compost is dry. It signals thirst by wilting visibly and recovers quickly once watered, which makes it an unusually readable plant for a beginner. |
| ZZ plant | Low light | Scorches | Only when the compost is dry throughout — check to the bottom of the pot. In a dim cool room that can be six weeks or more. When in doubt, wait: this plant is far more likely to be suffering from too much water than too little. |
Ready-made lists from this group
Published only where the filter genuinely narrows the category.
When something is wrong
The houseplant guides GrowingHQ publishes, each built from the causes it holds specifically for that plant rather than from a general symptom page.
- Aglaonema: lower leaves turning yellow
- Alocasia: silvery or mottled leaf surface
- Alocasia: lower leaves turning yellow
- Aloe vera: lower leaves turning yellow
- Boston fern: growth has stalled
- Boston fern: lower leaves turning yellow
- Calathea: brown, crisp leaf tips
- Calathea: spreading brown or black patches on leaves and stems
- Calathea: lower leaves turning yellow
- Christmas cactus: sudden leaf drop
- Christmas cactus: plant wilting although the soil is moist
- Christmas cactus: lower leaves turning yellow
- Echeveria: lower leaves turning yellow
- Jade plant: lower leaves turning yellow
- Kentia palm: brown, crisp leaf tips
- Lemongrass: brown, crisp leaf tips
- Monstera: brown, crisp leaf tips
- Monstera: sticky leaves, or a sticky surface below the plant
- Monstera: lower leaves turning yellow
- Moth orchid: plant wilting although the soil is moist
- Moth orchid: lower leaves turning yellow
- Peace lily: brown, crisp leaf tips
- Peace lily: plant wilting although the soil is moist
- Peace lily: lower leaves turning yellow
- Pothos: lower leaves turning yellow
- Rubber plant: sudden leaf drop
- Rubber plant: lower leaves turning yellow
- Spider plant: brown, crisp leaf tips
- Spider plant: lower leaves turning yellow
- Bird of paradise: healthy growth but no flowers
- Swiss cheese vine: lower leaves turning yellow
- Syngonium: brown, crisp leaf tips
- ZZ plant: lower leaves turning yellow
If the plant is not on that list, diagnose a problem works from what you can see and narrows as you answer — and it says when the evidence is too thin to be confident, which for an indoor plant is more often than anybody would like.
Every houseplant in the catalogue
Grouped nowhere in particular — the useful groupings are the light bands and the pet-safety split above.
- AglaonemaAglaonema commutatum
- AlocasiaAlocasia × amazonica
- Aloe veraAloe vera
- AnthuriumAnthurium andraeanum
- Bird of paradiseStrelitzia reginae
- Boston fernNephrolepis exaltata
- CalatheaGoeppertia makoyana
- Chinese money plantPilea peperomioides
- Christmas cactusSchlumbergera × buckleyi
- DieffenbachiaDieffenbachia seguine
- Dragon treeDracaena marginata
- EcheveriaEcheveria elegans
- FatsiaFatsia japonica
- FittoniaFittonia albivenis
- HaworthiaHaworthiopsis attenuata
- Heartleaf philodendronPhilodendron hederaceum
- HippeastrumHippeastrum hybrids
- HoyaHoya carnosa
- Jade plantCrassula ovata
- Kentia palmHowea forsteriana
- LemongrassCymbopogon citratus
- MonsteraMonstera deliciosa
- Moth orchidPhalaenopsis
- Parlour palmChamaedorea elegans
- Peace lilySpathiphyllum wallisii
- PeperomiaPeperomia
- PothosEpipremnum aureum
- Rubber plantFicus elastica
- Snake plantDracaena trifasciata
- Spider plantChlorophytum comosum
- String of heartsCeropegia woodii
- String of pearlsCurio rowleyanus
- Swiss cheese vineMonstera adansonii
- SyngoniumSyngonium podophyllum
- ZZ plantZamioculcas zamiifolia
Compare all 35 houseplants side by side
Light, spacing, minimum pot depth and container suitability in fixed columns, so you can run an eye down one of them. This is the view the card grids above cannot give.
| Plant | Type | Light | Spacing | Min. pot depth | In a container |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AglaonemaAglaonema commutatum | HouseplantStraightforward | Dappled shade, Full shade | — | 18 cm | well suited |
| AlocasiaAlocasia × amazonica | HouseplantDemanding | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 18 cm | well suited |
| Aloe veraAloe vera | HouseplantStraightforward | Full sun | — | 15 cm | well suited |
| AnthuriumAnthurium andraeanum | HouseplantSome care needed | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 15 cm | well suited |
| Bird of paradiseStrelitzia reginae | HouseplantSome care needed | Full sun, Partial shade | — | 30 cm | well suited |
| Boston fernNephrolepis exaltata | HouseplantSome care needed | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 18 cm | well suited |
| CalatheaGoeppertia makoyana | HouseplantDemanding | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 15 cm | well suited |
| Chinese money plantPilea peperomioides | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 12 cm | well suited |
| Christmas cactusSchlumbergera × buckleyi | HouseplantSome care needed | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 12 cm | well suited |
| DieffenbachiaDieffenbachia seguine | HouseplantSome care needed | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 20 cm | well suited |
| Dragon treeDracaena marginata | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 25 cm | well suited |
| EcheveriaEcheveria elegans | HouseplantSome care needed | Full sun | — | 8 cm | well suited |
| FatsiaFatsia japonica | OrnamentalStraightforward | Full shade, Dappled shade, Partial shade | 150–250 cm | 40 cm | well suited |
| FittoniaFittonia albivenis | HouseplantSome care needed | Dappled shade, Full shade | — | 8 cm | well suited |
| HaworthiaHaworthiopsis attenuata | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Full sun | — | 8 cm | well suited |
| Heartleaf philodendronPhilodendron hederaceum | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 15 cm | well suited |
| HippeastrumHippeastrum hybrids | OrnamentalSome care needed | Full sun, Partial shade | 25–30 cm | 20 cm | well suited |
| HoyaHoya carnosa | HouseplantSome care needed | Full sun, Partial shade | — | 12 cm | well suited |
| Jade plantCrassula ovata | HouseplantStraightforward | Full sun | — | 15 cm | well suited |
| Kentia palmHowea forsteriana | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 30 cm | well suited |
| LemongrassCymbopogon citratus | HerbSome care needed | Full sun | — | 25 cm | well suited |
| MonsteraMonstera deliciosa | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 25 cm | well suited |
| Moth orchidPhalaenopsis | HouseplantSome care needed | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 12 cm | well suited |
| Parlour palmChamaedorea elegans | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade, Full shade | — | 20 cm | well suited |
| Peace lilySpathiphyllum wallisii | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 18 cm | well suited |
| PeperomiaPeperomia | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 10 cm | well suited |
| PothosEpipremnum aureum | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade, Full shade | — | 15 cm | well suited |
| Rubber plantFicus elastica | HouseplantSome care needed | Partial shade, Full sun | — | 25 cm | well suited |
| Snake plantDracaena trifasciata | HouseplantStraightforward | Full sun, Partial shade, Dappled shade, Full shade | — | 15 cm | well suited |
| Spider plantChlorophytum comosum | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 15 cm | well suited |
| String of heartsCeropegia woodii | HouseplantStraightforward | Full sun, Partial shade | — | 12 cm | well suited |
| String of pearlsCurio rowleyanus | HouseplantDemanding | Full sun, Partial shade | — | 10 cm | well suited |
| Swiss cheese vineMonstera adansonii | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 15 cm | well suited |
| SyngoniumSyngonium podophyllum | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade | — | 15 cm | well suited |
| ZZ plantZamioculcas zamiifolia | HouseplantStraightforward | Partial shade, Dappled shade, Full shade | — | 18 cm | well suited |