GrowingHQ
Herbculinary herbSome care needed

Parsley

Petroselinum crispum

A biennial usually grown as an annual, notorious for slow germination — three to five weeks is normal, and a great deal of parsley seed is written off as dead when it was merely still thinking about it. Once up it is productive, tolerant of shade, and one of the few herbs that will keep going through a mild winter under a cloche.

Position
Full sun or Partial shade
Water
moderate demand
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Grows to
30–45 cm × 25–30 cm
Hardiness
H5
Harvest
May to November
Difficulty
Some care needed

Described view

A second-year parsley seen from above with a thickened flower stem rising from the centre of the crown

August

Sow outdoors · Harvest

Parsley’s year

Resolved for United Kingdom (general). Every window is stored against a climate event rather than a date, so a late frost pocket runs later than the band shows. What else August calls for.

ActivityJFMAMJJASOND
Sow outdoorsMarch. April. May. June. July. August.
HarvestMay. June. July. August. September. October. November.

Timing that travels

The band above resolves this plant's windows into months for one region. These are the windows themselves, stored against a climate event rather than a date — which is the form that survives being carried to a colder garden, a frost pocket, or next year.

  • Sow outdoors2–18 weeks after the soil becoming workable, twice a year — spring and midsummer — for a continuous supply
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — sowing

    Checked 2026-08-13

  • Germination5–23 weeks after the soil becoming workable, three to five weeks
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — germination

    Checked 2026-08-13

What kind of herb this is

Herbs are a kitchen grouping rather than a botanical one, and the plants in it want opposite things. This is the one distinction that decides how to treat it.

Cool-season leafy herb

Growing regime
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — growing

Checked 2026-08-13

Grows fast in cool moist conditions and runs to flower in heat or drought. Sow little and often rather than trying to keep one sowing going through summer.

Treated the same way: chervil, coriander, dill. The herb bed, split by regime

Indoors
Indoors spring to autumn
Where the indoor assessment comes from
IndoorsSourced guidancemoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — growing indoors

Checked 2026-08-13

Almost any herb will sit on a windowsill in July. This is about whether it is still there in March, which is the part a pot on a supermarket shelf does not tell you.

What happens when it flowers

On a herb this is rarely a problem and rarely nothing. It is the point at which the plant stops being what you grew it for — by a lot, a little, or not at all.

Ends leaf production
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

A parsley plant flowering in its second spring has reached the end of its life rather than gone wrong — it is a biennial doing what biennials do. Sow a replacement each year and let the old plant flower, because the flowers are worth having and the plant is finished either way.

source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — growing

Checked 2026-08-13

Conditions it needs

Light
Full sun, Partial shade
Direct sun
4 hours a day or more
Frost
Hardy
Hardiness rating
H5 (RHS)
Grows best at
15–22 °C
Germinates at
10–25 °C
Soil
Loam, Peat-free compost, Silt
Soil pH
6–7
Drainage
Moisture-retentive
Water needs
moderate
Drought
poor tolerance
Waterlogging
moderate tolerance
Heat
moderate tolerance
Wind and exposure
good tolerance
Where these figures come from
LightSourced guidancehigh confidence

Genuinely productive in partial shade, unlike most culinary herbs.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Grow your own: parsley

Checked 2026-08-13

Direct sunHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

FrostSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — hardiness

Checked 2026-08-13

Hardiness ratingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: RHS hardiness ratings

Checked 2026-08-13

Grows best atHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Germinates atSourced guidancehigh confidence

Germination commonly takes three to five weeks even under good conditions.

  • OSU Extension ServiceOregon State University: Herb seed germination temperatures

Checked 2026-08-13

SoilHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Soil pHSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • University of Minnesota ExtensionUniversity of Minnesota: Growing herbs

Checked 2026-08-13

DrainageHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Water needsHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

DroughtHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

WaterloggingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

HeatHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Wind and exposureHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On your soil

Computed by comparing this plant's recorded requirements against each soil's recorded characteristics. A recorded horticultural fact overrides the comparison where GrowingHQ holds one.

SoilVerdictWhy
Heavy clayGrows well hereParsley grows perfectly well on heavy clay without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
SandyWorks, with one conditionParsley will crop on sandy, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Chalky and alkalineStruggles hereParsley struggles on chalky and alkaline: The soil is substantially too alkaline for it: it wants pH 6 to 7, and this soil sits around 7.8 to 8.5. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering. A container or a raised bed of imported soil sidesteps the problem entirely.
LoamPrefers this soilLoam suits Parsley as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7, and this soil is in that range. Loam is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
SiltyPrefers this soilSilty suits Parsley as it stands: The pH suits it: it wants 6 to 7, and this soil is in that range. Silt is among the soils it is recorded as suiting. The soil holds moisture, which saves a great deal of watering.
Peaty and acidGrows well hereParsley grows perfectly well on peaty and acid without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.
Shallow over rockWorks, with one conditionParsley will crop on shallow over rock, but one thing has to be dealt with first. It has little drought tolerance and this soil dries out fast — it will check and bolt in the first dry spell without watering.Water and mulch will carry it through. On this soil the watering is not optional in a dry spell, which is the difference between a crop and a failure.
Made ground and urban soilGrows well hereParsley grows perfectly well on made ground and urban soil without special measures, though it is not the soil it would choose.

Not sure which you have? Four hand tests will settle it.

Space and spacing

Mature height
30–45 cm
Mature spread
25–30 cm
Rooting depth
30 cm
Spacing
20–25 cm apart
Where these figures come from
Mature heightHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Mature spreadHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Rooting depthHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

A taproot, which is why parsley dislikes being moved once established.

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

SpacingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — spacing

Checked 2026-08-13

How far apart to plant parsleyThree parsley plants drawn in a row at their recorded spacing of 20–25 cm between plants. The spacing is drawn to scale against a one metre rule; the plants themselves are symbols rather than scale drawings, so the distance between them is the part to read.20–25 cm
Measured centre to centre. Plants set closer than this compete for light and water long before they look crowded, and the crowding cannot be undone once they are in.

In a container

Minimum volume
5 litres or more
Minimum depth
25 cm
Where the container figures come from
Minimum volumeSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Herbs in containers

Checked 2026-08-13

Minimum depthSourced guidancehigh confidence

Deeper than most herbs need, because of the taproot.

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley in containers

Checked 2026-08-13

Grows well in a pot but needs a deeper one than most herbs, because the taproot goes down further than people expect and a shallow pot produces short-lived plants that bolt. Keep it evenly moist; parsley is the herb in this list most often ruined by a container drying out.

Where and how you can grow it

Each way of growing is assessed separately, and “not assessed” is a real answer rather than a gap we have filled in with a guess.

MethodSuitabilityWhat it needs
Open groundWell suited
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley

Checked 2026-08-13

Raised bedWell suited
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Traditional dug bedWell suited
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

ContainerWell suited
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Herbs in containers

Checked 2026-08-13

25 cm of depth for the taproot
WindowsillWell suited
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Growing herbs and salads indoors

Checked 2026-08-13

A deep pot; A bright sill
Cold frameWell suited
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

The traditional way to keep parsley picking through winter.
PolytunnelWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Agriculture and Horticulture Development BoardAHDB: Herbs under protection

Checked 2026-08-13

AquaponicsWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Aquaponic herbs

Checked 2026-08-13

GreenhouseWell suited
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Agriculture and Horticulture Development BoardAHDB: Herbs under protection

Checked 2026-08-13

HydroponicsWorkable
source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic herbs

Checked 2026-08-13

Vertical growingWorkable
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Growing it

  • SowingSow 1 cm deep into warm moist soil and be patient — three to five weeks is normal. Sowing into cold spring soil makes it slower again, so a mid-spring sowing often overtakes an early one.1 cm
  • HarvestingPick the outer stems at the base, leaving the centre to grow. Cutting the whole plant across the top removes the growing point and slows it badly.
  • ProtectionCover with a cloche in autumn to keep picking through winter. Parsley run to seed in its second spring is finished and should be replaced.
  • WateringParsley is one of the herbs that genuinely wants watering. It has a deep root but soft leaves, and a plant that dries out once is checked — it goes tough, bitter and pale, and in a second-year plant a check will send it straight up to flower. Keep the soil evenly moist rather than alternating between soaked and bone dry, and mulch around plants in open ground. Pots need checking daily in warm weather; parsley in a small pot on a sunny sill is nearly always underwatered.
  • FeedingParsley is a leaf crop and will use nitrogen, unlike most of the herb bed. In decent soil enriched with compost before sowing it needs nothing more for a season. In a container, or where leaves are yellowing and growth has slowed after heavy picking, a liquid feed every few weeks through summer keeps it producing — this is a plant being repeatedly defoliated, and it has to rebuild from something.
  • ThinningThin seedlings to about 15 cm once they have their first true leaves. Parsley sown thickly and left crowded makes thin, drawn plants that bolt early and yellow from the base, and the thinnings are worth eating rather than composting. Thin in stages if slugs are about, so a loss does not leave a gap.
Where this guidance comes from
SowingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — sowing

Checked 2026-08-13

HarvestingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — harvesting

Checked 2026-08-13

ProtectionHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — overwintering

Checked 2026-08-13

WateringSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — cultivation

Checked 2026-08-13

FeedingSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — feeding

Checked 2026-08-13

ThinningSourced guidancehigh confidence
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — sowing

Checked 2026-08-13

Is it worth putting under cover?

Whether it will grow there is on the methods table above. This is whether the space is well spent, which is a different question and usually the one being asked.

StructureWhat protection is worthWhat decides it
GreenhouseExtends the season
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Winter light. Parsley is hardy and stands outside; under cover the leaves stay clean and cuttable through the months when a kitchen actually wants them.
PolytunnelExtends the season
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

What protection is worth for this crop, judged against the same standard as every other record in this file.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Winter light, and cheap bed space to do it in.

On a windowsill

Spring to autumn
source

GrowingHQ editorial positionmoderate confidence

How long the crop is actually productive on an ordinary British windowsill without added light.

  • GrowingHQ editorial synthesisGrowingHQ

Checked 2026-08-13

Productive from roughly March to October and not after. Growth stops when the light does, and a plant pushed through the dark months usually does not recover. Light. A pot cuts well from March to October and then stalls; the plant is biennial and will bolt in its second spring rather than recover.

Growing it without soil

Nearly anything can be grown in a soilless system by somebody with enough equipment. The useful question is whether it is worth it, in which technique, and what goes wrong.

Works with conditions

Succeeds when the conditions listed here are met and fails when they are not. The conditions are the answer, not a caveat.

source

Sourced guidancemoderate confidence

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic herbs

Checked 2026-08-13

Productive once established; the taproot and the slow start are the two things that make it less convenient than basil.

Techniques that suit it

  • Drip-fed mediumSolution is dripped into an inert medium around each plant. The most forgiving technique and the one that suits large, long-season, heavy crops.
  • Ebb and flowA bed of inert medium floods and drains on a timer. The medium holds moisture between floods, which makes it far more tolerant of interruption than NFT.
  • Deep water cultureRoots hang in aerated solution. Very productive and very unforgiving of solution temperature — warm solution holds less oxygen and root disease follows.
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Root space
A taproot needing more depth than most leafy herbs — medium-based systems suit it.
Lighting
Needs supplementary light
pH band
5.5–6.5
Where these figures come from
Root spaceHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

LightingHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

pH bandSourced guidancehigh confidence

Outside roughly this band, individual nutrients become unavailable even when they are present in the solution — which is why a crop can starve in a full reservoir.

  • Purdue ExtensionPurdue University: Hydroponic solution management — pH

Checked 2026-08-13

What actually goes wrong

  • Very slow germination — three to five weeks — which ties up propagation space and tempts growers into thinking a batch has failed.
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — germination

    Checked 2026-08-13

No nutrient recipes here

GrowingHQ records pH bands, which are measurable properties of nutrient availability, and deliberately records no EC or PPM targets and no mixing instructions. Published targets vary by cultivar, growth stage, water source and technique, and the figures that apply to your system are on the product you bought.

Harvesting

Time from sowing or planting: 10–14 weeks
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Parsley — timing

Checked 2026-08-13

  • When it is readyPick from the point the plant has a dozen or so stems, taking from the outside.
  • How to pick itCut individual stems at the base.
  • Keeping itKeeps several days in water or refrigerated; freezes better than it dries.
Where the harvest guidance comes from
When it is readyHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

How to pick itHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Keeping itHorticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Keep picking

Regular picking keeps this plant producing. Fruit or leaves left to mature signal it to slow down or stop.

What goes wrong

ProblemHow oftenNotes
Normal biennial cyclecommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

Running to seed in the second summer is the plant finishing, not failing.
Carrot flyoccasional
source

Sourced guidancehigh confidence

  • Royal Horticultural Society: Carrot fly — host plants

Checked 2026-08-13

Parsley is an Apiaceae and a carrot fly host, which matters when planning where to put it relative to a carrot bed.
Slugs and snailsoccasional
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

On seedlings.
Boltingcommon
source

Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

No external citation — see the evidence type above.

Checked 2026-08-13

In its second year, which is a biennial completing its life rather than a failure.

What to look for

Views that settle something a description cannot. Where the photograph has not been taken yet, the description of what it will show is here instead — which is the useful half of it either way.

Described view

A well-established flat-leaf parsley plant with stems radiating from a central crown, several outer stems cut at the base

Grown with, grown after, grown instead

Every relationship states its mechanism. A pairing nobody can explain is a pairing nobody has checked, and it does not go in.

  • Shares a problem withCarrot
    Both Apiaceae and both carrot fly hosts. A permanent parsley plant beside the carrot bed keeps the pest present between carrot crops, which undermines the rotation that would otherwise help.
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Carrot fly — host plants

    Checked 2026-08-13

  • Closely relatedCoriander
    Both Apiaceae grown for their leaves, both disliking root disturbance and both best direct-sown. Coriander bolts far faster, which is the practical difference.
    source

    Sourced guidancehigh confidence

    • Plants of the World OnlineRoyal Botanic Gardens, Kew: Apiaceae

    Checked 2026-08-13

Safety and edibility

  • Contact hazardsensitised individualsParsley, like other Apiaceae, contains furanocoumarins that can cause skin sensitivity to sunlight after handling large quantities of foliage in bright conditions.
    source

    Horticultural consensusmoderate confidence

    • Royal Horticultural Society: Plants that may cause skin reactions

    Checked 2026-08-13

    Cover your arms when clearing a large quantity of parsley foliage in strong sun if you know you react.

Sources for this page

Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board · GrowingHQ editorial synthesis · OSU Extension Service · Purdue Extension · Royal Horticultural Society · University of Minnesota Extension

Each figure on this page carries its own citation, under the “where these figures come from” note in its section. Record last reviewed 2026-08-13.

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